Scoobyghost

Welcome. Clutch depends on mods or future mods. Exedy blue box are oem and iirc good for 300ftlb or there is the pink box which are good for 350ftlb. Common issue for your year seems to be top mounts on the rear shocks. These turbos do favour the high octane fuel and if it has been remapped you will need to stick to the fuel it was mapped for.

If it's turbo stick to high octane. Lower octane fuel can cause det in the engine. If your car is an import and hasn't been mapped you will definitely need to use high octane fuel. If it has been modified again use high octane. It pays to get in the habit of using high octane. You may get caught short and 95ron will be OK but fill up the bare minimum and try to keep the revs low until you can get some real fuel and flush the cr@p through.

Resurrection! Found this on the bay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302011180883

All easily accessible. Simple job. I'd recommend watching someone do it first time round if you're worried.

3000 miles is a good service interval if you plan to keep the car and look after it. Oil and filter will only set you back £40-£80 depending on which oil you go for. Labour cost will obviously increase the overall price. Standard oem parts you could use importcarparts.co.uk Modified parts, the world is your oyster...almost. There are so many places offering bits.

Walk-through for code check and all the codes. http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/index.php?/topic/2366-Manually-Reading-ECU-Codes Way to go tapatalk! Think it just had a brain !Removed!. Not sure if link is showing and it double posted [emoji35] [emoji36]

Best advice for a turbo engine of this nature is to use high octane fuel. The lower octane could lead to detonation(pinking/knock). Even members with unmodified cars run into issues with standard fuel and notice a sudden improvement with high octane fuel. Standard Ron fuel is fine if you're poodling around town and not using the turbo but once on the loud peddle you'll appreciate spending a few extra pennies on the good stuff.

I can't 100% claim they'll work as with all diagnostics a lot is trial and error.

http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/index.php?/topic/2366-Manually-Reading-ECU-Codes

Those plugs are not the best for the car. You want pfr6b or pfr7b. I'll find the link for the ecu check.

I've heard it's all digital now. Pretty sure the Xv owners were discussing it.

I'm not sure for your particular model or if the ecu is the same. The prodrive is usually a slightly different map.

Welcome Ashley from Somerset.

He's told you a massive fib.

Trying to convince her to let me go to finale. Couldn't make this with the new sprog arriving and I think finale is 1st October. Our first wedding anniversary is 3rd so I might be stuck doing some epic 1yr celebrating...yay

That's her next Xmas pressie sorted.

They do fetch good money. Depends on colour and condition of the paint.

Welcome to London [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23]

In regards to you exhaust work that rear section will be nothing to worry about. 450 sounds a lot though. I'm sure some fabricators do full systems for similar price

Just a Labrador that thinks she's a baby. [emoji5] One wife and two boys if they count [emoji6]

We need to clear up what section of exhaust you are getting done. Axle back suggest just the rear section which will make relatively no difference to power and may give you a louder car. Also will have no impact on back pressure. Cat back would suggest a centre section and rear section leaving the standard downpipe and cat in place. That will give you much more noise, small power gain but again little to no difference on back pressure. Turbo back is basically the full exhaust system and having no cat in the downpipe will give a large power gain, take away a lot of back pressure and depending on boxes in the centre and rear will make it much noisier. If you are having a full system with no cat in the downpipe it will need to be mapped. For centre and rear box changes mapping is not essential.

On a turbo car removing the downpipe helps the engine breathe quicker. Lower back pressure could have it's downsides being that everything can move quick and with more force. It's a fine line between power modification and every day reliability. If you are only having a rear box put on it will have little influence to how the engine runs.

Welcome to the club. Dont see many in that colour.

I have eagle f1 gsd3 on and they've been an excellent tyre. Almost at the death on fronts and they've been on the car for 18k miles. Good dry and wet grip but you can get them to kick out in the wet. Still very controllable. They do what they're asked and I've never been caught out by them. Gonna be a sad day when I change as they no longer make them for my size 😢

You don't need to take it apart to measure for bushes. Just measure it next to the mount points.