Jay762

I use the us sites to initially identify part numbers then search on ICP or ebay or Japanese import sites to see if they match

Looks like you have the loom adapters (just visible top of second picture) in place for the unit so should be an easy item to swap

What a shame - that just sucks

Can you take a photo of your existing unit in place at the moment - If its already after market you may have all the loom adapters required in place already

Do you have any error codes?

Good luck with the sale

As above depends on offset and width of wheel (not diameter)

Looking good - going to a real stealth looking motor

Putting a sport cat is a good idea as a replacement over standard IMO. I would get a map check to be on the safe side setting up the system in relation to your engine and intake. The ECUTEK licence is linked to the ECU, the only issue you may have is if it has been locked by the tuner they will need to be contacted by your tuner

You should be fine with a 16inch wheel https://www.wheel-size.com/size/subaru/forester/2012/#trim-20d-eudm-145 215/65R16 96H 6.5Jx16 ET48 5x100 2.1 / 2.0 225/55R17 95H 7Jx17 ET48 5x100 2.2 / 2.1 225/50R18 96H 7Jx18 ET48 5x100 2.3 / 2.1 225/50R18 96V 7.5Jx18 ET48 5x100 2.3 / 2.1

I used Larkspeed up Leeds way for most of it and ordered the whiteline stuff direct from their site as there was a discount code I could use at the time. Cannot rate Larkspeed service enough as the powerflex and superpro sites were not clear on the part numbers for my model, some bushes that arrived were for a BRZ. Larkspeed owned the issue spent the time on the phone with the suppliers and sourced the correct parts.

Super pro AU bushings https://superpro.com.au/find/superpro-suspension-parts-and-poly-bushings-for-subaru-forester-2013-on-sj-/cid-999501511 Alternate model arm options https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/09-18-forester-and-sti-front-control-arms-information-updated.792047/ Whiteline AU products https://www.whiteline.com.au/do_segue4.php?make=SUBARU&model=FORESTER&model_final=2013-2018&vehicle=FORESTER+SJ

Hi it depends how you want to approach it. Option1 replace the bushes only Parts cost - New bushes only This means you have the labour to remove the arms Labour to remove and replace bushes (needs a press and possible torch to burn out the bush) Labour to replace the control arms Tracking setup Cost is less in parts but more in labour Option2 replace the control arms which include new bushes Parts cost - Control arms which include new bushes Labour to remove arms Labour to refit new arms Tracking setup Cost is more in parts but less in labour. I would look at Option2 as more garages can do this as it requires less tools so gives you variable labour rates to choose from then take it to a decent place to get your geometry setup I know this is a UK site but gives you an idea of cost for an arm https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=14424&cat=96&sub=3663&sec=0&var=0&dc=&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart= Option3 source control arms with bushes and do it yourself on your driveway then take it to get a decent GEO setup

As above

Hi - they are less desirable unfortunately dependant on mileage and condition between 1800 and 4k for a mint low mileage

Torque GT have some nice kit going through their doors - been watching their site for years

@savage bulldogs has just replaced an Apexi unit so may be able to help

Hi - photos and a ballpark price usually help, you say the trade in option was dissappointing so you must have an idea - One persons reasonable / sensible is another persons astronomical

https://fenderist.com/fsg010en

I would do the belt and the pump at the same time purely because of the accessibility. For your motor I would keep it OEM, the higher flow, enclosed cast impeller I would only consider if you are running at higher revs a lot as the design is supposed to stop cavitation

Visited TDR in Warwick to check the fueling after replacing the VF34 for the standard VF48. Nice safe results s# mode 348BHP (288 WHP) tickover was raised from 620 to 740, has smoothed out the idle nicely not quite as loud on the startup

08 STI standard internals, ARP bolts, Cosworth HG, Cylinder 4 cooling mod, Cosworth panel filter, standard UEL headers, HKS uppipe, Cobra full stainless turbo back system, standard VF48, standard fuel system, 3 port boost solenoid Area 52 made a decent job of the first map and TDR only had to do some minor tweaks for the different turbo.

Hi - I love the Subaru brand but from the experience shared on this forum, they do not do a good diesel product.

I used Whiteline, Powerflex and Super Pro but the strongflex option will sort you out no problem

If you don't bleed the fronts first you run the risk of trying to bleed a bubble from front to rear which uses more fluid and is fine if you are doing a flush but for taht reason I always do fronts first