Jay762

Sounds like you need a thread of your own to keep us updated - as mentioned before its a slippery slope 😁

I dont have the answer buuuuuut I did deal with Larkspeed when replacing bushes and there were a couple of curve balls in sizing that got thrown up - errors on the manufacture website, but fair play to them they phoned the different manufacturers and sourced the right sizes for me. https://www.larkspeed.com/

Ok so I must have listened to this video clip at least 10 times today - doesn't get old. A real credit to your efforts over the years

Clutch, flywheel, gearbox and crank seals replaced plus the separation plates. Whilst doing that turns out oil leak was from turbo so a replacement gasket was needed. Covered 200 of the 500 mile recommended bedding in distance - limiting myself to 3500 revs max, short shifting a lot.

Group N bearings arrived - Ordered direct form Japan, not quite over night but saved some money. Will get the studs pressed and replaced with ARP items

Finally managed to source some replacement centre caps - both options from Subaru did not fit - Quite pleased at that as the one option were £22 each for a piece of plastic. The wheels are Borbet alloys supplied as dealer options so I pinged Borbet directly - German company and will only ship to a German address, fortunately I am working over there and had the opportunity to get them shipped to the hotel. €6 each so a lot less than Subaru options and a proper fit. Only compromise no Subaru logo but I can live with that

That is an option however I would not discourage you from doing your own thing - It depends on how determined you are, I would def go for the turbo block though so you can build the engine whilst still driving your motor - take your time and build over time when funds allow plus talk to engine builders who have done this type of conversion wait for the right parts to come up second hand or from stalled builds to save you money I did look into it for my own NA hatch and may do something similar in the future with the left over parts I am accumulating 😉 but I will be starting with a turbo block so I have the extra fixing points etc

Is it a hatch or hawk? look to start with weight loss - rear seats etc improve your power to weight ratio Getting that power is possible but you will pay for it. Bigger valves, polished ported heads x3 angle cut, Ti springs to cope with high sustained revs, oil pump, oil cooler, uprated coolant pump, block skim, high comp pistons, uprated cams, baffled sump, FPR, uprated fuel pump, possible bigger injectors.... You are talking between 4500 - 5500. that doesnt include any bearings or crank balancing Your motor does not come with a belt guide so running the high revs you run a risk of the belt jumping. Consider: A: a dedicated track car. B starting with a 2.0 or 2.5 turbo lump and look at fitting your heads post rework. There are quite a few race classes particularly in rally that are non turbo so there are many examples out there but I dont believe they start with your lump I found my 2.0 hatch to be really softly spring, small arb's etc on a spirited country drive whilst I preferred the feel of the brakes over the larger more wooden sti ones they would fade really quickly and round corners was really wallowing. I do not think it would have lasted one session on the track - If yours is the same I would consider chassis mods alongside weight loss then the engine starting with a doner turbo lump. raise the compression ratio, lumpy cams, port and flow the head, match the manifold and header to the heads Oh keep a camera handy and start a build thread 😁

Talked about many times but always seems to be costly against buying one that is done already what seems to be more common is a turbo to non turbo conversion for tarmac / rally events

Wotcha - I think it is more than the HP when it comes to towing Torque / nm is more of a factor. Have you researched the 3.0 lump? If that is cost prohibitive maybe selling / swapping the 2.0 for a 3.0?

Soooo limited experience as follows: Stock 330s - soft with less feel on turn in and front comes up under acceleration WRX STI with Cusco Street Zero A's (Designed for fast road) but ARB's etc all standard. Vast improvement - set to same height from bottom thread marker the front sits slightly lower than the rear, turn in and response is vastly improved but the ride whilst firmer is not crashy - I will still replace the steering rack with a 15+ item to get the faster ratio WRX STI with Ohlins DFV, Perrin ARB's Perrin droplinks and 15+ rack - Only had limited experience it was positive but inconsistent (Turns out springs were incorrectly fitted) Still not crashy on the roads but firmer than the CUSCO's - going to be good to get them on track. From what you are saying I would recommend the CUSCO's then if still not happy look at a thicker ARB to reduce roll even more

Just watch out for the cameras on the A38 👍

Nice one!

all in the prep - looking good there

nightmare 😟

Cheers, getting there - need to spend some more time on paint correction but will sort it eventually

After living with the car for a bit , have found its only occasional - transition from wider throttle opening to closed and coasting / engine braking so I dont think it is deliberate antilag that is there all the time but the unburnt fuel from the cylinders based upon the map and probably the VTA dump valve that is fitted causing rich mixture. Either way its ok to live with as not too intrusive, when driven sedately eg through built up areas, it doesnt happen

Yes it was a surprise to me as well... I think it was caught in a flood at some point and left to sit

Front bearings off but not without a fight, GrpN replacements on the way then I can fit the longer ARP studs

Replaced the front splitter with one that is not as hard / brittle as where this car goes as a daily it does catch every so often, this way even though slightly larger it does not seem to dig into the ground so much Before After - The matt black matches with the matt black in the bumper so does not look out of place Really hated the bit of flimsy metal rad guard so replaced with the perrin item from the project car (Dotty) Before After Found the where the oil is dripping onto the exhaust - looks like it is coming out of the bottom of the clutch housing so ordered some plates from ICP so along with the clutch, rear crank seal and gearbox shaft seal should ensure the new clutch is not getting coated - when the garage sorts an MOT and clutch replacement later this week. Keeping a standard plate to maintain the driveability low down, not interested in the few extra bhp higher up rev range for this motor (Sweets courtesy SprintingHare JDM who provided great service)

Hopefully gone to a good home 👍

Hi - just read through your ad and you have £7500 for quick sale in the description, might be confusing. Also these are holding strong money at the moment have you posted it on any social media platforms?

Nice motor - Good luck with the sale

As above they do give better control over boost when mapping and for the comparative cost well worth the investment

Had a quick search through my JDM parts sites and nothing, discontinued or not available