Jay762

Went to get some petrol and have some awd therapy. Threw a code whilst being particularly spirited 😁 Currently researching P2006 - Intake manifold air control actuator, bank1....

Smooth lines

Wotcha and welcome - My favourite shape of Outback / legacy that one, feel free to get stuck in all friendly on here

I soaked mine for a week in plus gas then it took 11t in the press to shift it. I prefer to use moly slip now around the brake areas - used copperslip for years but found more and more it would heat up then run staining my wheels When it came to the fronts I approached it in the way suggested by Mr B with his air hammer and lots of heat. initially a lump hammer and bolster would not shift it and as I didn't have an air hammer I used my SDS drill with a chisel bit. They did yield eventually but you can see the ring of rust, that was also matched on the hub as well they just go solid. I get the impression Subaru just assemble them dry. They are just a nightmare task unfortunately The most time effective way of dealing with them is replace the hub and bearing at the same time, far quicker but costs more in parts. The trade off is garage labour cost vs parts - Is the cost of a hub relative to the labour time spent removing the bearings worth it? Down to the individual for that choice

not bad from just a larger diameter pipe

I have coated mine in molyslip so hopefully the rust will not be as bad if the time comes to replace them again

The nozzle is held on by clips over a small tab each side, you can pull the washer unit out about 3 cm by hand then use a small watch makers type screwdriver to gently lever the clip over tab.

The reverse light should come on with ignition on but engine off and putting the car into reverse. I would say it is in the clear part of the lense. A quick look under the bumper will show if you have wires going to the reflectors indicating fog lights. Your fog lights def do not work, you have tried switching the on with engine running and your headlights on, not just side lights?

Rare items I believe - good luck with the sale

Ahh yes - Hopefully that will work

Looks good - can see a fully 'murdered out' Fozzy coming soon..... You might as well start a build thread 😉😁

Depends if the cars are registered as company assets or not. Looking into putting his company into receivership in order to recover the debt in relation to your ccj. You do this by submitting a petition in London. I had to do this once when a company decided I didn't need paying one month, slightly different circumstances but it may work for you

Its great it went in your favour, unfortunately he is not the only one out there who resembles your statement, too many are happy to put out slapdash shoddy workmanship for top dollar. But the fact that you are willing to record the events will help others in the future hopefully avoid being in the same position

Wotcha and welcome - Hopefully someone with experience of that unit can provide some imformation

Unfortunately too new for me, best suggestion is to pull the unit and see if it has the AV connection for the camera input. It shouldn't be too hard to get the unit out. On the 2008 - 2015 models it is pop the surround then remove the x4 screws

Wotcha and welcome - feel free to get stuck in share pictures etc, all friendly on here

Wow bit more thought than I gave it - I was just thinking mount a clock face to the front of it, hadnt considered linking that to the spokes 🙂

Lotus Charlton - very nice, doesnt have the registration 40RA does it? 😄😉

This is always the dilemma. The cheaper ones suffer with rust really quickly as well as the lack of damping. I have used KYB struts recently on other motors including my lads mitsi colt - Improved the ride over OEM no end, firmed it all up nicely without compromising on comfort. They also worked well on my Kwak MX bike 😁

make a clock or table for man cave

Nightmare - and so easily done unfortuntely

No I cannot say that as I have never used them myself, I have read several pieces on the coilover topic though - for example BC have great branding and distribution but the lower end of their range can be harsh and 'crashy' over uk roads. I have Cusco Street Zero A coilovers on my hatch which are a really good compromise between ride and control but they are not budget. I compare to a koni / eibach setup I had years ago which had the car like it was on rails but if you caught a pot hole you knew about it. So dependent on budget and driving requirements I would look at a higher end strut spring setup vs lower end coilovers for a predominantly daily driver. If you plan to spend most time on a track more budget coilover options could be investigated due to smoother surfaces

Before going coilovers I would consider what you want the car for. Cheap units can be horrendous for a daily car where a higher quality set of aftermarket shocks and springs eg Bilstein, eibach combo, would give better damping and a nicer ride whilst still being able to push on if required

Wotcha and welcome

Looks like a GR, RX ones are 15mm so will be WRX or STI