Tidgy

Not always visible.

Not always visible.

as above, i expect it would run like a bag of spanners and worse case take out the engine

O dear, that might explain it. When an engine is rebuilt it needs to be run in before boost is applied to allow the engine to bed in. Typicly its to let the pistons rings to properly bed into the bore. If you wern't told it needed running in then i expect that maybe where your problem lies. Could do with getting it to a specialist to get it checked out (leak down, maybe get a camera into the cylinders to see for any damage), but i suspect damage is prob alredy done :( Personally i'd be looking for a refund.

welcome :)

Tis Organe,

You say you've done 500 miles since it was rebuilt, has it been run in? aka has it been running without boost?

you do realise sniff test uses a chemical to test the water? way that reds you just shoved your nose near it lol

Check the ends of the rad for cracks around the plastic sections, they have a nasty habit of cracking and leaking. Also does it make any difference if you potter around for a bit or give it the hard right foot?

subaru seem to say that 1L every 1000 miles is the concern point, so your well over that :( When they say it was rebuilt, exactly what did they rebuild? did they just swap out the headgaskets or was it a full strip down crank up rebuild? (which on a 2.5 with headgasket failure is the only option i would accept)

Missfire could be caused by lots of reasons from incorrect plugs, plug gaps, coil packs etc given the age of the car its not inconceivable the coil packsa re giving up. What plugs went in it?

See not all drug dealers are bad,,,,,, hahahaha

My dark blue clasic got the same treatment matt. Guy had it a month and crashed it through a couple of hedges and two fields, broke his back in the process as well :o

think hell or hella or what ever there called, have a group buy on SN at the min for brake lines

As above, watch out for wheel offset to make sure they fit underneath. Other option is perhaps a set of D2 6 pots? i'd stay clear of K-sport due to dust seals, or lack of them.

Was sent a link to this, When i sold the car it was in pretty good condition, technically solid and bodywork was fine with no rust or dents (other than odd stone chip), in 9 months the new owner managed to crash it and go through two engines. Is it just me or do folks get sad when they see cars they use to own getting abuse?

Failing to make boost then, failing to hold boost would mean it hit the 1.2 then dropped off rapidly (although it will drop off top end anyway, its just how quickly it does it) could well be the turbo in that case.

Problem with cheap turbos (unless they are second hand units) tends to be cheap chinese knockoffs. Why do they think the turbo? is it failing to hold boost? not making boost?

No need to upgrade the tensioners etc save some money and just buy standard ones.

Yeh mine was the same, was fine one day, then the next a slight rattle on start up and at 2k ish rpm. You having it rebuilt or second hand one?

At a 100k it's pot luck as said above, mine developed a crank rattle at 104k and had I not had it stripped as soon as diagnosed it would have let go sooner rather than later. Assuming the oil change was done correctly then i suspect its just coincidence. Unless you have driven every mile in the car then there's no way to know how it was treated previously. The crank bearings in mine looked like this when the engine was stripped down, To get 30pmg average you must have been using the right foot very lightly lol

welcome. V-limited?

As above, the first map the car has will make the biggest difference to how it drive imo. Response and driveability are massively improved as well as extra go. Just beware of place promising figures higher than others and make sure its a proper custom map, not just a flashed on generic one

Haha. :D

ECU will need swapping out as well, syvecs for the win hehe