Tidgy

Welcome, 1, as above 2, picture looks standard to me, what do you think is missing? 3, as above, anti corrosion stuff, nerwer cars seem the get dipped in them they chuck that much on them haha 4, mpg depends how you drive it, but 12 seems low, Are you running it on vpower/99? does it have any mods bar the dumpvalve? can you get it on a rolling road to find out whats going on? 5, rusty bits are pretty normal 6, Regular oil changes, 3k or 5k depending on how you drive it, if hard more regular changes. Always keep on top of maintenance, running it on decent fuel 99 ron. If theres an issue (eg stutters on power, check engine light etc etc) dont try to drive through it, get it checked out.

I would always make sure you balance out changes you make if upgrading, so if you put uprated on the front then do the same on the rear as it will change the balance of the car. Unless of course your planning to change the balance like with roll bars. Whiteline are pretty good as a brand.

Scoobyclinic up at chesterfield can supply parts new for all models so give em a bell, bear in mind if you do a full decat and downpipe you may well need a map to cover the change.

As a starter, Right car is always worth traveling for tbh i would ask for a full refund, get the car back to them and go on your way, i've seen lots of situations like this and they never seem to work out well. Untill its assessed you wont know the extent of the damage, but given what i can only assume is extremly high oil consumption (4L in 1000 is a mega problem even for a forged engine), then i suspect the engine is not in a good way at all, so i would expect a bill well into a few thousands to put it right. This of course assumes its not something as simple as wrong grade oil or something like that. But either way i'd get it back to them and get your money back 😞

As said, just not worth the hassel, will cost more than just buying a wrx or uk turbo

Look after it properly, 3 or 5k oil changes depending on how you drive it, do bits that need doing and it will be as good as it can be, don't look after it and it will fail. its the ring lands that fail rather than the rings so new pistons needed, problem is how catastrophic it is, if your lucky then just ne pistons, rehone etc and rebuild, if your unlucky then whole engine is a right off

if you can find a 2,5 thats been rebuilt then it will be fine, the 2,5's when they are built right make an epic road engine

Meat ware issues, aka the meat behind the wheel haha, are the same across the models tbh no mater the brand your gonna get that. The 2.5 issue is a % problem, aka the failure % on them is alot higher than any other engine in the range. The faults are well documented, head gakets and ring lands, but the cuases of the failure is the unknown. I know of some 2.5's that get beaten with a big stick repetedly and dont fail, then others that get kid gloves and fail. What i can tell you is do the pistons, headgaskets and headstuds and you wont have any issues after that, asssuming your not going big power of course

yeah, at the time would have had to have pretty much sold everything bar the mrs haha. At that time they had been bombing in price with no signs of going back up again, the one that was up for sale sold for 23k 12 months before so 5k drop in 12 months 😮

it's a 2.5 so its pot luck. People say alot of things about the cause of the failures, but i know cars that have everything done to try to stop it and they still fail. drive it, enjoy it and if problem comes up just get it sorted.

seems to be hit and miss if it works, also if you use the wrong chemical then will damage it.

I cant see them ever being that desirable myself, i nearly nought a 22b for £18k about 10 years ago,god am i gutted now 😞

yep, modify it right or it will blow up in your face. Also people seem to think becuase they can buy it for 5k, its a 5k car come service time, no its a 30k car come service time

there arnt fromt eh origional manufacturer, they are just copys, and typicly poor ones at that

How about a thread for funny giffs,

cheap turbo's are just poor quality copies, they tend to not perform and not last very long.

tgv delete adds no power, they only work for about 30 seconds when the car fires up, they can however cause issues if they fail, so people remove them for reliability rersons.

iirc side feed is v1-4 classic only, although im not 100% on that so need to confirm with supplier

it will need mapping for the front mount, should still idle ok so you may have nocked a sensor or coilpack adn thats cuasing the duff running

someone else will have to answer that as im not fully up on the codes

depends if its a garage or just a dyno place with a mobile mapper.

will need mapping as soon as they are fit as the fueling will be waaay too much. but they will do the job

just confirm with them they are the right fitment

yeah for that power level the sti's should be fine, need to make sure they are flow match and tested before use though if they are second hand

looking back at my emails mine are decapped and flow matched standard hawk sti ones, bear in mind its very different application though as they are good for 500+