Tidgy

uh, you dont know whos mapping it? is it on a dyno? injectors or fpr should do it. i cant remember what brand mine are tbh

whos mapping it? really bad as engine will lean out, but decent mapper will see it and stop the run. At that point its a choice between getting what you can and backing off the map, or swappng parts

will find out when its maped, its one of those that some cars are ok, some dont. might be able to find some sti injectors that will do the job

should be ok with FPR, but no way to tell till its tried. inlet pipe wont be a limiting factor so no need

ah sorry, missed the turbo swap, will be a vf35 i expect so should see 320 ish assuming it has the fuel, may need a fuel pressure reg and 3 port boost sol to get the best form it

whp is an americamism and not used over here. 280 will be at the flywheel though factor in about 25% loss (varies depending on alot of factors), so roughly 210 at the wheels

as above, leave it alone. the map will be a better fit for the car than the stock generic one.

varys from car to car, i;d expect somewhere around 280ish as the turbo will be maxed.

it wont last at 400 i can tell you now, may people try to get away with it and it always ends with rods and pistons the wrong shape. Dont forget these car are now 20 years old so not alot new is doen that hasnt been done or tried before. 6 speed form any year will be fine at that power level, its gonna be more about getting it to fit, widetrack will mean hubs etc all bneed to be done as well and iirc the driveshaft is the wrong length for a classic.

does the key still work maubaly? also what fobs are they? if sigma have a read of this, http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ReprogramAlarmRemoteControls done it several times to various models

aftermarket so i'd try googling the brand and see what youc an find out, i cant quite read the name from teh pics

if they are the same age they will have the same underlying chassis, however there are wing, crash protection, and even material differences between them. that said, classic use same chassis bug-hawk use same chassis but with more structual differences hatch is individual and im not 100% on the ones following that

hawk wrx box is designed for 2.5 so longer ratios. i ran one at 390bhp 420 ftlb for about 14k miles no issue on a forged 2.5 hawk. options are, A - hawk 5 speed, at that power at the top of its limit (assuming 450) and no telling how long it will last B - Have your box rebuilt with a gear kit, but need to be carefull what gear kit you use as they have different ratings, also allows ratio changes and can be custom set for what youw ant (short ratio 1-4, lonnger motorway gear 5th), wont get much if any change from £2.5-3k. I have straight cut ppg gearkit in my old car and sounded epic haha C - 6 speed from an sti, which is by far best option simialr price to rebuild with gear kit, downside is its 90kg heavier setup had to decided on this option several times and tried em all haha, One thing i did note was you say your engine isnt forged, if not forget anythign about 350 unless your planning on rebuilding again.

came out to mine back end of last week and i've seen more life in a dodo. as flat6 says i chucked my ctek on it and its now always charged. i bought a cable extension for it so it now runs under my garage door and to the car without leving any connectors exposed.

I dont think there are that many on the road tbh so you wont get many owners joining forums, i only know one person ever who had one.

plenty of options rather than paddle clutch, some fo the single plate clutches are rated to well above 500, or you can look at twin plate. tbh i think the clutch is the least of your concerns of your going to track it.

just a slight note, i saw gearbox reinforcement plates mentioned, dont bother with them, waste of money

personaly i;d never buy a second hand engine, unless the person selling has done every single mile on the engine and you trust them completly, you have no idea what condition its actualy in. If your planning to keep the car then i'd look at getting the existing engine stripped and assessed and go from there.

i would never not do the bottom end on a 2.5 once the headgasket fails, risk of bearing damage is too high

dont bother with the 20g, will be laggy as. sedcond hand vf35 will do the job and wont break the bank, anything beyond that will push beyond the limit

welcome 🙂

im still amazed how much emphasis people put on dealer service history, i've found most decent independent specialists know considerably more than the dealers.

aye 🙂

no no i know you weren't dude 🙂 just from experiance i know how it adds up when you chuick in labour, and then vat is a killer as well, it's so easy to underestimate the costs, always worth shoipping round, but ive seen plenty of prices for 500 builds from different tuners and they all end up there or there abouts.

yeh, not that hard mail order