Tidgy

Ask whoever is building your engine and go with that. I;ve had two built and the recommendation was 1. 500 miles, wastegate pressure boost (disconnect it) on crappy mineral oil 2. 500 miles on semi synthetic and no boost, 3. 1000 total total miles, fully synthetic, reconnect wastegate and map to suit

So dads 18 month old XV looks like its going to be written off, car ploughed into the back of mum and dad on the m40 yesterday morning. Both ok, although mum's tweaked her back. cars not so lucky. Impact was from behind and shoved them into the central reservation, looks like enough damage to buckle the bottom of both A pillars :(

9th march iirc. i;ve preordered on pc :D

didn't think you knew how in the first place,,,, hahaha

full suspension test

my uk turbo scoob, 10 years. went from near standard (just had decat and wheels when i bought it) to everything bar the main engine being moded lol

aye as danny boy says above, 2.5 block, V5 heads :) the 2.0 block was pretty mullered when it came out so was junked

pug 106, 1.0 with a manual choke :o

happens from time to time, cold and hot cycles can build up stress in the glass, because its safety glass it shatters rather than cracks.

Edited for accuracy ;)

i bought my first one in 2001 at the young age of 19 :o

I would suggest KYB AGX anyway.

http://shop.scoobyclinic.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_135&product_id=339 or tein http://shop.scoobyclinic.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63_163&product_id=796 No point in going mega high suspension and tbh i;d be tempted to go aftermarket shocks and lowering springs instead, fit, geom and forget plus more compliant for crappy uk raods

welcome, pretty rare beast tbh. Option could maybe to get one converted? really depend on budget

need to find where the fault is.

as above, alternators are usually pretty bomb proof.

haha, you can get a 2.7 kit as well :D

welcome

plenty of friendly MOT place around ;)

snowed over night and settled but now only odd flake in the air and alot of the settled snow has melted

Bit of a novel upcoming response but hope the reason makes sense. Also bear in mind while so of this is fact, alot of the 'better' options are personal preference and there is no right or wrong answer. whp is typicly US value and is major over eged. Fly wheel BHP is the typical measure, at the road you loose roughly 23-25% (very rough figure, alot of things affect it condition of gearbox, oil thickness in the gearbox, any loses through the diffs etc etc) so 550bhp at the wheels will be 700bhp at the fly based on a 25% as an easy figure. What the stock engine will do is very dependant on where the starting point is. A jdm is 2.0 and has proper forged pistons so will prob do 450 with bolt on's. 6 speed box has the synchro weakness as you say, but typicly not an issue. But there's also more to it than that. Car use has a big difference to how you would achieve it. A race car will be belt and brace, possibly Linered closed decked etc etc masive list of supporting mods, coolers, etc etc mega overspeced and then run at lower power to try to retain reliability. Most top race cars, eg gobstopper, have a refresh after every event and can still fail. They typically run at high revs and high boost so generate alot of heat and wear quickly. A road car is a very different kettle of fish. You need to look at matching gearing and engine. If they mismatch you could find the ratios mean the turbo can;t spool up before your changing gear (i had this issue on mine when i was running a 2,5 on short ratio 5 speed box, the torque the engine was producing meant the turbo couldn't keep up so the car pulled harder in 3rd and 4th than it did in second) For a road car there is a phrase, 'there's no replacement for displacement'. So to answer your question, 450bhp at the fly is a good figure for the road. A 2.5 is my personal preference (why i went that route), they produce considerably more torque than a 2.0 so have power lower down the revs. EG 2.5 400bhp/450fltb, 2.0 400bhp/350ftlb or a mix there of. I'm running 398bhp/465ftlb. Combined with the right ratios (im on a uk hawk DCCD box) they are fantasic on the road. So let say you go for 450bhp on a 2,5. A reliable 450 which is the key to it Your gonna be looking £4.5-5k for a built 2.5, forged piston, rods, head gaskets, acl race bearings, arp headstuds. (possible additional if heads need rebuilding). Then you need to look at what else you need to get there, it will only perform as well as the weakest part, Option to closed deck the block £500 Turbo £2k Front mount £2k Injectors £400 Fuel pump £200 Inlet pipe £250 Decat £600 syvecs (ECU struggles to cope at this level) and other options are available, but IMO not as good, £2500 inc installation and mapping Clutch £1000 fuel pressure reg £250 3 port boost solenoide £100 4bar map sensor £200 £13,000 then add in all sort of ancillarys that are advisable to do, oil and filter, water pump, oil pump, cambelt and tensioners etc etc and your prob up to £14k give or take. works out alot of money when you look at whats involved. Pick up your chin now lol Can you get there cheaper? yes you can, will it last as long and be as reliable? 9 times out of 10 nope.

Wondering if there is a way to swap the order or auto go to last post when you click a post in the latest posts list? Is there a setting int he user panel im missing that does it?

welcome.

haha no probs. Basicly he was saying pedders stuff was crap on the thread, but then it turned out he got the wrong shocks from the supplier so made himself/supplier look very stupid.

yeah pedders is decent enough kit, just need to make sure its the right fitment. Remember a while back where they got a kicking on SN only to find out the person had been given the wrong ones by the supplier and they wern't suitable for his car and was clearly shown on pedders website. Talk about egg on face.