savage bulldogs

Pulled a few spares outta the shed looking for something a mate wants . Fook knows how it all fitted in there but I've gotta hurry up and put it all back b4 the Mrs comes out here [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Just thought I'd bump this as there's only 5 spaces left on the stand 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Have you done a classic self ecu code check and If so did you get any codes up ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I think that's a bit of the loom used to plug the tmic water spray in on the sti models. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You shouldn't have any problems selling a 93. as the Americans are itching to import turbo gc8's and only the early classics are just old enough to import (due to their restrictions) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah "scooby" should be a reconised language of it's own but you'll soon get used to the jargon. Basically any 5 speed will mechanically fit. So if you get a bugeye onward box with the same ratio as your existing rear diff it will drop straight in . I'd also consider fitting a clutch while it's out ,cos you'll be gutted if the clutch goes shortly afterwards as the box will have to come out again [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Goggle the ratio of your box ty number and the ty number on the strutt I'd plate . If they're the same ratio find a 5 speed box of the same ratio and it will fit fine fella 😉. The only main differences between 5 speeds is the ratio (has to be the same as the rear diff) and the later (bugeye onwards) 5 speeds have a bigger /stronger casing than classic boxes . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I managed to find a 6 speed box and all that's needed for conversion for £1,395 delivered and fitted it myself. So I'd thought you wouldn't get much change from £2k supplied and fitted . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It's probably not helping but I think some models of classic only run about 0.7 bar standard. Either a misfire or air leak could cause a lack of boost . Have you checked vac lines and intake tract for signs of cracking or splits ? How were the plugs any particular one blacker that the rest ? Are you getting any codes on the ecu ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I sold a full set of Goodrich stainless steel brake lines for £20 a few months ago [emoji57] Think you can get cheaper one's new for about £40 though [emoji39] [emoji116] [emoji116] [emoji116] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

About time you got this sorted and running the right power for the mods you've got, happy dayz [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I can't help as I've never had this area of my car apart before [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'd probably start with plugs and visually inspect the coil packs for cracks in the insulation and signs of "arc'ing" from coilpacks to head/cam cover . As they're prone to cracking due to the heat and age . Thought I'd ask about mods as somtimes even a cone filter can adjust the airflow enough to cause a misfire or flat spot . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Has it got any engine mods ? Are the plugs and coil packs in good nick ,as it Could be a misfire or air leak If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Unfortunately I haven't got a multi meter ,so can't check the ohms for you and can't find the early map sensor either . I'm in no rush to sell anything ,as I tend to hoard useful bits of scoob . I've got 2 spare 3 ports and 2 spare v3 onwards map sensors if you do end up needing one though. On the plus side I found quite a few bits I forgot I had [emoji15] while searching through my shed load of scooby scraps [emoji23] What's the issue your trying to resolve, anyways ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Right I've found the 3 port and a v3 map sensor (so far ) are you getting a remap and want the v3 map sensor ,which is good for 1.7 bar ? Or fitting them to a standard map car , in which case you need the earlier v1 & v2 map sensor (in your pic) which maxes at 1.2 bar ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I might have a early map sensor kicking about but .... You'll have to stick a pic up of the map sensor showing the plug ,wire colours and part number . As they changed at v3 late 96 onwards and if you try to fit the later one (which is a common upgrade when getting a remap) it won't work unless you get a mapper to recalibrate it[emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If it's a standard car on a standard map I'd have thought it would be a mechanical issue causing the trim . Ie failing cat ,blowing upipe or manifold ,air leak (maybe just under boost ) ect . As they Might cause parameters between sensors to conflict ,add fuel and !Removed! timing. I've never had the equipment to read the esl or current apexi, so don't know much about codes but i think my esl'd ecu used to pick up noise from my forged pistons and add fuel to the map as it thought it was exessive knock .So could it be a minor intermittent issue that's not logged a code ? Has the tps posibily been disturbed ? as this would give incorrect readings for throttle positions to the ecu . Maybe a dyno would help to pin point it ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Nice genuine looking bug sti you've got there Gary 😎 Nice to meet you both this afternoon too [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

That's quite a list ,you have been busy [emoji41] They might be to large for tapatalk try editing them by using crop or lessen the quality to make them smaller. Or upload them to photo bucket then copy n paste the img#### link [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I would say welcome back but seeing as there's no list of what scooby shiny stuff you've done and no pics ....... I think you need to delete this post and have another go with much more info [emoji12] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Definitely check the crank and cam sensors are plugged back in , cos (as stants said ) it won't fire and will just turn over if they're not connected. Crank sensor is in the top of the oil pump ,above the crank pulley under the alternator. Cam sensor is on the passenger side top just behind the back of the timing belt cover . If theyre both ok remove the timing belt covers and check the timing marks .As To fit the oil pump you'd have to remove the timing belt . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

As matt said most that run extra boost use ngk 7's and make sure they're compatible with your engine size .As the 2.5 heads run a different length plug than the 2ltr heads. My personal opinion of the "multi point" spark plugs is that they're a bit of a gimmick, although I've got no data to back up my opinion. Basic electrical behaviour is the spark will "jump" across the smallest gap between "prong" and "core" . Therfore only ever "sparking" at 1 point not all 4 at once ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah I agree with your opinion on the W"b"ankers but house prices don't really affect me too much. As I jumped on the ladder at 19 and payed it off at 40 ,so I've got enough equity and savings to almost buy the next house with cash 😉 I (apparently) have a fairly rare ra rear diff which has a lsd and it does seem to like lighting up the rear tyres more than my old ok diff 😎 I'll probably drop the rear subframe off mine at some point when the rear bushes start to show signs of wear . My v1sti has only done 86k and has only been over here since 2011 , so isn't showing any signs of wear yet but ........ If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊