savage bulldogs

No problem bud hopefully it will be something simple . Shame I didn't take any pics of the standard vac lines on my 94 sti [emoji53] As mine is now far from oe

Sorry was going to reply on your other thread but couldn't find the info on restrictor pills and vacuum line positions I'd posted before . http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/6050-more-boost-disappointmentslight-happiness/ Think your model is covered on there

Yeah the engine , drive train and suspension components are the same dimensions across the 2 ,4 and 5 door turbo gc8' s It's just the version /inlet phase , gearbox/diff ratios , r160/r180 (diff and hub set ups) and outer cv's that differ across the classic range pending on year and model

Z4 ecu was for a early wrx which had 260 hp standard . Some people do fit a fuel cut defender when using manual boost controllers to allow it to run more boost without hitting fuel cut . A esl daughter board could be fitted and would be easy to spot with the ecu "case" removed Looks a bit like this depending on version

last year I did 4 dyno sessions in 2 different scoobs [emoji5] even if I've not had anything fitted I like it to go on rollers to make sure she's running rite at some point every year anyways .£ 500 for just mapping is a bit steep .I've paid from £300 for duel mafless maps with hi low boost . simon (rip) only charged me £60 to up the boost 0.2 bar, wire in a apexi map sensor and tweek a existing map . Martin does your air intake (from the air filter to turbo) pass under the inlet manifold ?

Have you checked for vacuum leaks ? It should have a 3 port boost as standard, where do each of the 3 ports/vac lines go to ? Have you tried cleaning the boost solenoid with electrical contact cleaner ,

Yeah if it's got greys they wont be able to flow enough for a mapped tdo5 (up to 1.4 bar) but the v1 wrx's and sti's ran greys and a tdo5 as standard . We got a safely mapped 292 hp out of it mine before upgrading to 440's and fmic [emoji4] I agree it seems that if you chuck most mods at a classic the ecu will compensate for the change in parameters from the sensors and adjust fueling , pull timing and even use fuel cut as a safe guard . I don't mean to sound like some people on another well known scooby site but some classic are over 20 yrs old ,have had various owners and no service history .so some will just go bang anyways no matter how well you service /treat them [emoji20] I personally wouldn't change anything major without a dyno check /map tweek . However I did spend over a grand on my pistons and rods and don't think the mrs will let me buy some more just yet [emoji4]

The early classics had black plastic side skirts and rear bumper "hockey sticks" It would've looked a bit like mine apart from the front splitter and face lift bonnet, lights and grill . Yours looks like a v1 /v2 93/95 . So look out for preface v1 /v2 stuff . Pic with silver wheels is standard v1 94 preface . Pic with black wheels has got v3/v4 bonnet , lights and grill and p1 splitter all of which are standard subaru stuff just from a slightly later model

Think martins scoob is a v3/v4 (97/98) in which case the turbo in the link will need to be converted to front entry and won't be a direct fit [emoji6] As for swapping for a bigger turbo without mapping .... I'd get it mapped as the original map fueling will be set up for the smaller tdo4 . It might run and drive ok unmapped but for how long I couldn't tell you . If it's remapped you'll see much more power ,extra 0.6 bar of boost and peace of mind that its running right

The ecu can advance and !Removed! the timing but doesn't have control over the cams until the later blobeye sti avcs heads (I think) It does look like that engines been apart as the cam pulleys are a mixture of early cast and v3 onward plastic

I'll let you 2 sort out how much £' s changing hands as the front entry coldside belongs to stu . once you've got the turbo let me know so we can sort out a time / day that's suits us both to convert it matt [emoji106]

If stu doesn't need this front entry coldside and it's ok with him , buy his turbo and give him a extra £25 for the front entry cold side . Pop down to see me snd I'll convert it for you instead bud [emoji6]

Gutted for you stu [emoji20] I guess you'll be back when your circumstances change but do you want me to refund the money for the front entry td05 cold side bud ? Best of luck with the vag , hope things pick up soon and most of all don't be a stranger bud [emoji6]

I'd guess that the decat and lack of restrictor pill would be causing over boost which in turn would cause the fuel cut you're getting . 94 wrx map would be set up for the bigger tdo5 so would chuck extra fuel in when the throttle position sensor is in "full beans" mode . So id expect a pop from over fuelling at about 4k whethe smaller tdo4 cant flow enough air to keep up with the tdo5 map fuelling scale Although all classic injector plugs are grey the plastic top of the injectors themselves should be grey (380cc ) to match a standard ecu map for your year/model .

Nice clean looking p1 you've found there with some choice mods and nice figures[emoji41] I think the newage exhaust has two different mounting brackets one on the dowmpipe to gearbox and one on less on the backbox section . you can get to the back of the fogs by disconnecting the indicator/fog wiring and removing the bumper but the nuts that the fog cover bolts go into are "captive" so unsure if bumper removal would help . My headlight washers worked when lights were on and windscreen washer button (on the stalk) was depressed . I disconnected mine anyways as my car is never that dirty and they kept stripping the wax off the bonnet. Maybe look at some braided brake lines if you need to replace the standard ones

if its only got minor breathing mods the correct standard ecu should make it run a but better unless something faulty or a mod has been fitted thats outside the standard maps parameters . imo switching ecus about is a bit of a lottery without monitoring afr, knock and det but I've always been a bit parra when it comes to fueling due to hearing a few horror stories about unmapped scoobs . What model /year is it ? What colour are your injectors ? Whats the number on the "standard" ecu Are you sure the apexi lost it's map and someone hasn't accidentally changed a setting on the hand controller And finally what turbo n mods have you got

Only generic classic chip I know of is a mines ecu . It up's the boost and has a slightly more aggressive cam timing , but as matt said your better off with a re mappable ecu . As short cuts in power/boost increases are normally short lived and more expensive in the long run .(if it goes bang). I'd put a standard ecu back in a save for a mappable ecu/remap or get it on a dyno to make sure it's not going to eat your internals . Too much fuel = bore wash (strips the oil from the bores) Too much air = hotter combustion melted pistons

Yeah it's in better nick than most well at least it was ..... Trying to straighten things while under the influence of beer is probably not the best plan bud [emoji4]

I get a slight whistle from that area as soon as I turn the ignition on . As its not even running I think mine is just the fuel system pressuring and returning to tank when the fuel pump primes the system prior to startup . Mine only does it for 3 seconds though

I've read that SOME of 2fast2cools stuff is the same as japspeed but cheaper and some of it just looks cheap lol .As he buys some stuff from the same manufacturer as japspeed by the container load but sells it cheaper due to less overheads . For £200 you can probably buy a better quality second hand system from one of the manufacturers you mentioned above but most of the japspeed stuff seems to be the better quality than the cheap chinky crap on ebay [emoji6]

I used autoglym machine cleaner and a toothbrush , it's water based so does need rinsing off with water but it worked well . Have a search on here as there's a thread somewhere with a few products and methods already tried and tested . Don't forget the before and after pics [emoji6]

Nevell you can always double check with your mapper about driving with unmapped bigger injectors but my brv changed from 380's to 440's then had to drive to the rolling road (50 mls ish) it used half a tank of fuel , idled ropey and popped n banged all the way there even though off boost [emoji39] Stants glad the tmic arrived in time for the weekend [emoji41] Although its a 18 yr old sti tmic,coupled to my tdo5 and 550's it cooled enough air to break my 5 speed [emoji4]

Nice list Nevell should see a fair increase [emoji106] The Mapper will fit the boost solenoid on the day (only takes 10 mins) and I don't think it will run right unmapped . Personally I wouldn't fit the injectors until just before the remap. As Although it will run and drive off boost the fueling will be out. so I wouldn't want to drive it too much with injectors that are a different size to your existing map .

Hi and welcome to soc . We have quite a few bugs on here in various states of tune , feel free to jump in on any of the threads or start one of your own of cause [emoji6] Pics are not mandatory but we do like em [emoji4]

If they're genuine nismos that's a good price ,I will admit I bought mine 2yrs ago and they'd just been cleaned I paid £180 (which was a good price ) They're not quite a direct fit as you have to file one off the "tangs" so the plugs fit , but they fit in the rails with adapters fine and operate without any issues I only mentioned the baffling and catch can as they do tend to breath heavy when driven hard and can suffer from the oil sloshing in the sump (when excessive left right cornering on track) . If you do fit phase 2's check if the phase adapter kit comes with both adapter and injector seals , as you'll need new sets of seals for injectors and adapters .unless you get recon ones and they come with their own seals