savage bulldogs

I'd suggest to clean the area first and keep a eye on it to see exactly where its leaking from . As you could end up buying and fitting a new/good 2nd hand pump , only to find out its leaking from where a pipe connects. As I'm fairly sure new pumps are close to £400 If it is the pump and you're handy with a spanner ,I Think i saw that import car parts sell a pump refurbishment kit for newage but you'd have to have a look or give Luke a bell . Hopefully it's just leaking from the feed ,return or reservoir pipe and I'm sure I.c.p do the pipe connection seals /washers for those .

As above check for uneven tyre wear,tyre brand and compound of tyre . You can cross referance the weather type and compound of your existing tyres on a tyre site link "black circles". You might find that they're a cheap tyre that underperform in the wet . On my first scooby it had half worn bridgestones on the rear and brand new "yin sing ditchfinders" on the front . Not only did the abs seem to kick in early but the understeer was horrible . I switched the tyres front to rear and with the part worn medium compound good branded tyres on the front , it braked and cornered much better . Admittedly most cars leave the factory set up with understeer, as its eaiser to correct by lifting off the throttle but the awd and boxer layout tend to mean most Subaru's handle fairly well.

If it's running fine I wouldn't worry too much tbh . It's only a guess that a bit of the plug might be the cause for that one cylinder being a bit low on compression but its not excessively different. Costing does vary , a second hand engine would probably be cheaper but you never really know how good a second hand 20 yr old engine is . If there is a score on a bore , it depends on how deep it is as to whether a hone, 0.5mm overbore or new liner/block is needed . The main cost of a full rebuild is in the labour to remove the engine ,both heads ,split the block halves, gaskets and rebuilding. I wouldn't expect to get much change from £2.5k if I had to pay someone to do a standard spec refresh/rebuild

Here's a screenshot from the page , ray is a top fella and will probably have them in stock 😉

Sold . Put this in the post this morning ,Tom 👍

Has it got any breathing mods and if so have they been mapped in ? As jay said they look like the tips have melted, if so a bit could've scored the bore or stopped a valve seating correctly. The compression readings dont seem too bad atm ,so maybe try not heat 7's instead of the standard heat 6's if its modded and mapped

Bit late but "automotive repair panels " on f.b does arch ,inner and outer sill ect for classics ,bug,blob and hawk 😉 Coming along nicely though chap 👍

You have been a busy boi , I clean under the scuttle panel on all my cars . Ever since my brvs a6 had blocked drain channels..... you could hear sloshing when he braked 🤔 We got 3.5 litres of rain water out of the under carpet sound deadening alone🤪 The sloshing was the chassis rails full of water , luckily once we removed the chassis rail bungs underneath the water drained out though

While I was rebuilding a ej207, I'm sure I read that it was either 15 psi or 15% difference that was within limits in the subaru service manual. I know yours is probably a ej205 and I can't remember the exact normal limit but I'd say if you've not got any running issues it will probably be fine . Unless you're experiencing hi temperatures (possible h.g leak) , that particular spark plug is oily (rings ) or that plug is a different colour (possibly valve not seating) You could always google "leak down test" to try and diagnose a bit further , if you're still concerned

Always good to see a classic getting some TLC, nicely done too chap 👍

Feel free to put a forsale post on here or you Could try posting it on the jdm type ra Facebook page, at least most people will know what it is . Glwts

This has been sat on top of the kitchen unit for ages but I had a PM about it asking for pics and can't send pics via pm . So @thxxx i couldn't find one of it lit up in situ but here's on of it fitted , one of the pod and one of the face lit up in both colours 😉

Don't get me wrong the simtek works , just not many mappers use it due to the lack of support but if your local tuner does , it will do the job . Just thought I'd mention Ecu tek as its licensed ,not open sourced and has better tech support than open source software like esl ,Cobb, rom raider ect . Sounds like your gonna end up with a tidy scooby by the end of it ..... who ever said "money can't buy happiness " obviously never owned a modded scooby 😉

Glad you sussed it eventually and I'd have never known the answer, as I've never worked on a dccd impreza . At least you'll hopefully soon start to enjoy it soon 😉 And don't let it put you off ,working on it. I've had some proppa "flick a match at it moments " but I've always learned something once I've sussed it , so there's always something positive to take from it 😊 You've checked and tested a bit of the electrical system and we've all learned about the difference in hawk n blob neutral switches 😉

Ok so the pay pal issue was my fault and I'd somehow not copied the full details 🤐🙄 On a plus note ,I've sent payment with a note to say what the funds are for and who I am 😉 But forgot to add my address to send the ticket too 😂

Project creep kicking in nicely then 😊 Nice choice of engine builder and parts too 😎 Just be careful of simtek, as the aftermarket updates and care have slipped recently. If yours is drive by wire throttle ? Afaik the standard ecu with ecutek software will do multi maps ,launch control and flat foot shifting 😉

Still haven't found the time to fit another alternator or get to the dyno ,tbh the only real major thing I've done scooby wise is sell one 😏 At least I managed to make it too a local retro meet and a local show , so I've actually been driving and enjoying the v1sti for a change . instead of pulling it apart every 5 mins for kicks n giggles 🤐🙄😊 Bought a cheaper 20t a4 to replace the bug sti as a daily and winter driver. Before I paid the difference back into the bank I spotted a bargain..... A set of v4sti heads 😊 They have the most aggressive cams they fitted to classics and under bucket shims ,which lessen the chance of valve jack up at high rpm . So I've got something to keep my idle hands busy during the winter months, to refurb the heads and maybe upgrade a few bits as I do 😉 The seller said he'd chuck a few of the extra bits he had in with heads , so was happy to find 2x throttle bodies, 2 x tps ,a icv , HT leads and a few gaskets 😎 Pic of the bug sti (driven to the show by the new owner ) on the esc show stand with the v1sti , 1 of the dailys bay (nice n clean just how I like em) and one of the heads n bonus bits 😊

Yeah he seemed like a nice chap , glad it's worked out for you . Don't forget if your old heads haven't been damaged, they're worth removing and selling (£400 ish) , might help recoup a bit of money 😉

Try asking rapid dispatch in Ipswich, just had 2 cylinder head picked up from Edinburgh and delivered to me for £28 , they might collect if it's on a pallet ?

Well not today but recently I sold the bug sti 😥 I never intended to keep it ,just rebuild it and sell it straight away . I enjoyed driving it though so kept it for 18months ,instead 😊 So I still needed another cheaper family car ,as the v1sti isn't ever going to see a salty road again . After researching quite a bit for a family sized 4 door saloon , I just couldn't see me or the wife driving anything that wasn't a petrol turbo 🤔 I put some funds back in the bank ,so armed with just a £3k budget I finally found a 05 plate a4 20t se with 1 owner ,fsh including 2 cambelts . It definitely needs a bigger set of alloys as the current 16's look like they belong on a mobility scooter but it drives like a turbocharged sofa and gives 45mpg on the carriageway. .... I won't be getting it remapped though (honest) . Few pics by by bluebaru and the v1sti starting to look outnumbered by zee germans on the driveway (caddy workhorse and the a4)

It's my mate Garry's evo ,he's the one I bought the bug sti off and then he hopped over to the dark side 😉 Tbh a evo rs is probably the only evo I'd ever consider owning , it's the Mitsubishi equivalent of a ra. No traction or stability control, lightweight panels, windy windows ect 😉 So you actually need to "drive" it , rather than have technology save your skin when you run outta talent 😋 A nice clean example like his will set you back about £20k , so I could never see me ever owning one, anyways . Hell I don't even own 2 scoobies anymore, as I sold one last week and bought a cheaper audi a4 2 litre turbo 😂

Had a cracking day out with Essex scooby Crew and my family at Ipswich festival of wheels. Gotta love a 40+ scooby convoy on the carriageway too😎 Only took a few hurried pics on my phone of the stand but here they are anyways 😉

Going to Ipswich festival of wheels tomorrow, with essex scooby Crew. ... So today I be mostly spending most of the day cleaning , glazing and waxing the 94 sti 😊 Time for a nice cold beer methinks 😉

Pm'd you about a breaker on f.b that has a 70k 207 with recent cambelt 😉

I know there's a difference in voltage direction and wiring between the v1/v2 (4 wire) tps and the v3/v4 (3wire) tps . So can't really help with anymore diagrams, as I only have the v1/V2 and v7 sti service manuals . Plus my Frankenstein set up runs a mixture of v1 and v3 ,with newage coilpacks on a custom loom lol . Have you checked the icv take off too intake pipework for splits , as this might cause a icv issue . I'd also check the engine (near starter motor) and engine loom earth (near where the fuel line connects to the inlet fuel hardlines) .Maybe disconnect and clean them to make sure your getting a good strong earth . If that doesn't work then mark the TPS position ,then adjusting it and see if the voltage correction helps .