savage bulldogs

Sometimes if the tgv's solinoids stick they can cause the flaps to stay shut ,in turn starve air and give a misfire. If it's running a oil'd cone filter or inner wing induction kit the maf 's can get dirty . Cleaning with brake cleaner, waiting for it to dry ,refitting and clearing ecu codes can sometimes help .

Fitting a pump won't make any difference to the fuelling and it will run the same ,bud . The fuel pressure regulator will keep the fuelling the same as oe , but fitting a new pump before mapping is a good idea . As once remapped at full throttle the old pump might fail ,due to the extra demand for fuel 😉

Could check throttle position and maf sensor . if it's a wrx? Also That the tgv's are working correctly . What fuel are you using 99ron ?

Upset a smarmy looking 14 plate m5 driver and made a work colleague appreciate burble n boost 😊

Well sorry I can't help much more due to my lack of na spec knowledge, possible that turbo sized ring gaps and piston to bore clearances would work . But I generally don't like giving advice if I haven't done it myself (tried n tested) and I have no idea if the na pistons fail at lower boost levels because of the ring gaps or material they're made from ? Most ej20 bottom ends are the same size on the outside, but deck type ,crank thrust and internals differ quite a bit over the years on the turbo models alone. Just wanted to make you aware that the cost of gaskets ect wouldn't be much different from a na to turbo build. Especially if you can do the machine work yourself , I'd probably just build the turbo lump tbh . Other than piston material I'd check that the oil galleries are the same from na to turbo , as although the turbo oil feed and return attach to the heads , I don't know if the na block galleries will feed the turbo heads correctly. Best of luck with it and feel free to start a build thread, to keep us informed on your progress, bud

V1 and v2 up to early 96 are ej20g's as well so spec's I put up should be the same. Afaik the ej20k is v5 onwards with the different crank thrust and phase 2 heads

What year /version is yours ? V5 onwards they moved the crank thrust and changed the inlet manifold stud patterns but otherwise v1 to v4 are fairly similar

Bottom end

This is for 92 to 96 (v1 to v2) it's the only section for ring/bore spec , if it covers your version let me know if you need anything from the bottom end ect

I like to see things being done different but Tbh you'd probably be better off sourcing a 2nd hand turbo engine to drop in . As by the time you've bought all the gaskets,head bolts ect and had the machine work done (hone ,faced ect) . It would probably be cheaper, especially in a scoob that is supposed to run a turbo lump in the first place. I've built a few ej20's but never a na motor ,so can't really help with the na spec or turbo conversion. Im Unsure what type of materials the pistons and rods are made of too ? So have no idea if they're the same as wrx ones or whether they're made from weaker materials and whether they will handle standard boost (let alone once mapped). Ring gaps would vary pending on piston material and target h.p . headgasket thickness would be needed to be calculated with knowing the piston bowl and head chamber cc to get the 8.5.1 compression ratio

The usual route for a wrx to get the most hp, before expensive drive train and engine work upgrades would be. ... Panel filter Pink 565cc injectors (from a newage sti) Bigger turbo (from a newage sti) Up pipe without a pre cat (aftermarket or sti) Sti tmic. Sports or de cat . 3 port boost solinoid. All those "mapped in" should see 330hp ish ,which is about the limit for the wrx standard non forged engine and 5 speed drive train . Try to go much more than that and you'll need to be saving for a forged engine (£4k+) and a 6 speed box (£2k just for the box) 😉

Hi n welcome, first thing that springs to mind would be to check all earth's are making good contact and free from corrosion. Think There's two on the inlet manifold for the engine loom and 1 attached to the starter motor bolt . If they're still attached, try giving them a clean to see if that helps your symptoms.

Hi n welcome to s.o.c , i dare say the grip n power are quite a step up from the polo . Glad to hear another classic will be getting some tlc 😎 Feel free to start a build thread , to show us your progress once you get started

Think the main reason people upgrade to sti pinks is cos the bug /blob wrx's had smaller blue 440cc injectors as standard . For some reason 440 cc injectors in a bug onwards, only tend to make 320 to 330 hp (up to 350hp in some classics) Personally if your car is running well, i wouldn't see the point in fitting pinks. As they're the same cc as your dark blue hawk injectors ,Unless you want to get the 2nd hand ones cleaned and refitted with new seals for piece of mind , i can't see there's anything to gain at your hp target .

I'm not 100% on my hawk wrx spec but fairly sure they run dark blue 565cc as standard . I know the lighter blue bug /blob are 450 ish cc and those are generally capable of 330hp with supporting mods. So might be worth googling what size you have as standard , or just going for second hand "sti pinks " good for 360hp ish

Could just be that the coolant system wasn't bled fully after the new rad was fitted . Airlocks are fairly common if care isn't taken when refilling the coolant systems , so it could just be that the air has now worked its way out of the system . keep a eye on the levels and temp gauge ,maybe check that all heater matrix and top and bottom rad hoses are getting hot when the fans have cut in . This would check that there's not any other airlocks in the system stopping coolant flow .

I've ran mahle pistons in my ej20 cdb for 40k miles at 360 hp , so can definitely recommend them from personal experience. I think the general opinion is that a semi closed deck is good for 450hp , so using components for that target in that deck type makes sense to me . As buying more expensive rods and pistons rated to over 500hp ,would be a waste of money . @Tidgy Yeah , my "causes list " for ringland failure was just from a engineering point of view and not "ej specific " 😉 I'd imagine the 2.5's bigger sleeves might also have a effect on block strength and heat dissipation ,along with the longer throw on the crank used to increase displacement. uk and jdm ej207's run the same piston material but fairly sure, i read the later ej20 sti twin scroll's use different material (so didn't know if the later 2.5's do too) I'm not entirely up to scratch on my blob onwards spec and I certainly don't have any personal 2.5ltr experience. If i was building myself another engine it would be a 2.5 cdb with 14mm headstuds and a 2ltr crank to "destroker" it . As for the o.p I'd suggest to email a few companies in the uk ,to ask their opinion on whats best for your budget and target. Then price match the results ,rather than just buying off their websites 😉 Here's a few that know their subarus and will take the time to be helpful . A.s performance. Advanced automotive . Lateral performance. Import car parts. Best of luck and keep us posted 👍

I have built a few 2ltr ej's but haven't dealt with the 2.5 ltrs but from what I've read... 2.5's generally suffer from either ringland or headgasket failure .main causes of ringland failure from a engineering point of view are .... ring gaps being to tight, pistons swelling too much due to the material they're made from or the tune (det ,running lean ect). Headgasket failure causes .... overboost (excessive cylinder pressure) Overheating. Or lack of "clamping area" (generally a open deck issue) It depends on your target power and intended usage but if you definitely want to "future proof" id seriously consider the closed deck conversion . As this supports the cylinder bore sleeves and increases the "clamping area" for the headgaskets. Alyn at "as performance " would be well worth a email ,as he can undertake all machine work in house to the spec required ready to just build and possibly supply the block .

Some lovely looking metal there 👍 You certainly get about , credit to you for making the effort to get to all the shows in different countries . Hopefully you'll make it to another s.o.c stand next year .

Could try a reputable breaker like matt baker at "mbdevelopments" on Facebook , I'd still recommend getting a second hand block checked and honed if you're fitting new pistons. If your build is standard spec ? You could try luke at "import car parts" as they can supply new oe subaru "crate engines" and a new ej207 sti bottom end can be good for 450 hp in standard guise 😉 Can your old block not be overbored or better still (as tidgy said) sent to alyn at a.s performance to be closed deck converted and machined to the spec you're after .

I've always driven the v1sti all year round but seing as i have the bug sti and the 24yr old sti has recently had a full respray, i thought I'd take it off the road for the salty season. I finally found a seemly decent 5 ply breathable car cover for £50 😎 I gave the old girl its last bath of the year and took her for a "spin dry" to drive the moisture out the panel gaps and get the surface rust off the discs. Being a scooby fanatic, you'll probably be surprised to hear i quite like the look of evos 😶 but I'm not keen on being tailgated through town . Hit the sliplane and by by 08 plate evo 😊 well up to 70 mph when i dumped it 6th and backed off the throttle and he flew past looking unhappy that my 24yr old sti rinsed him from 0 to 70 mph 😂 Soapy pic and one of it's current hibernation situation 😥 So this thread will go quite for a bit ..... Well until spring when the scooby modding season begins 😉

I wouldn't worry too much if it's just a aftermarket panel filter in the standard air box? but if its a induction kit or cone filter they tend to be less restrictive and can suck in heat soaked hot air from under the bonnet (if it's not got a cold feed or heat shield) Once you've done your service you could always get a dyno health check (about £50) at a local 4wd dyno . They will check ,air fuel ratio ,knock , give you a power printout and piece of mind it's running safe 😉

Sweet glas you've got it sorted 👍

My wideband reads 14.2 at cruse and hot idle 11.2 on boost ,which is pretty spot on for a boosted boxer lump. Yours seems to look like its missing or flooding on 1 cylinder , did you fit the cleaned injectors with new seals? Are all the spark plugs the same colour ? If one is wet with fuel or black with oily residue it might help diagnose if it's a particular cylinder at fault

Oil grades do tend to be a can of worms , so many different grades available now. People do tend to agree that millers is a good quality brand ,though . As a general rule of thumb... Think most tend to use 5w 30 standard and 10w 40 modded (or high mileage) in bug (2001) onwards imprezas . 10w 40 in earlier standard,10w 50 for high mileage (or piston slap) and 10w 60 for forged or track use . If you've got any history with it see if it lists the oil grade used ,as engines will wear in to the clearance made by the oil and you'd probably be best sticking to the grade its used to (if possible). As for the header tank ,does yours have bolts on the top or is it plastic ? If its The one with bolts, you can remove the top ,clean out and reseal . If not maybe a aftermarket one would be cheaper . If it's just the crud inside your worried about, try a coolant flush before dropping the coolant . Just search on here for the refill process, as the can get airlocks fairly easily.