savage bulldogs

Sounds about right to me , although I've never paid anyone to fit a clutch tbh Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Sorry to hear about the loss of your leg , bud . But glad to hear it hasn't dampened you thirst for a impreza . As i said via pm , the classic autos are more common in wagons although i have seen a couple of auto saloons. My legacy spec isnt the best but afaik most turbo auto variants are twin turbo semi autos . I dare say that the semi auto box and twin turbo set up will physically fit into a impreza . The wiring and complicated twin turbo vac line set up would make it a lot more difficult to do a conversion. A impreza classic wagon however, has the same floor pan as a saloon, so box , loom , ecu , linkage , pedals ect will swap straight over into a saloon from a donor auto wagon . I did help someone with the same info a few years back , similar circumstances to yourself but he'd lost his leg in a bike accident and wanted to convert his p1 to auto . As he couldn't bare to sell it , so it's definitely do able [emoji106] Unfortunately i dont know what the power limits are of the impreza auto box but theres a member on here with a blobeye saloon wrx auto . he's having a remap soon ,So he might be able to shed some light on it ? All the best with the op and project, keep us posted too , bud . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

The chassis/vin number is stamped on the top of bulk head above the clutch fluid reservoir. The silver id plate has.... model , trim , option , engine and gearbox codes. Basically everything needed to identify what parts are fitted to the chassis from the factory [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Normally by the time the base map is on and idle is set the engines fairly warm anyways but it is possible to get a steady idle when not mapping from cold . As its a hr drive to my mapper and i don't have any hunting issues . Don't get me wrong , I'm not starting a "my mappers better than yours" thread but just pointing out that a slight weap from a injector seal would change the afr . Any mapper would probably map around the fault as its not a obvious fault (especially if your injectors are new or recently cleaned/checked). A proppa "smoke test" would be the best option to find any leaks in vac and intake pipework [emoji6] Removal and cleaning the idle control valve could be worth a try , although if it idled fine on the old 380's i doubt it's the issue . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

If the idle was set up with a leaky injector seal, it's possible that it could just need a tweek to get the idle right now the fault is fixed ? Hunting can be caused by vac , intake or y pipe air leaks too . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

No more ginger (rusty) nuts and a T shirt for Christmas [emoji4] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

When i reshelled the rusty v3 uk into my v1 sti shell the cradles were different, so i had to swap my nearly new rcm pump into the v1 cradle . Couldn't tell you what the differences between them were or whether it can be made to work but i found it eaiser to use the v1 cradle in the v1 tank / car Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

My v1 has the same preface jdm dash with oe lamco sti gauges . I think most use those or delete the center air vents and mount them there . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

If you do find a intake / boost leak and have to drive it again , get it ecutek mapped or put it back to standard downpipe and tmic . If the fuelling is lean under boost the engine will eat itself and cost a lot more than a £600 licence and remap Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

If the boost gauge is reading correctly, its probably running the standard map . As I've never seen someone go to the expense of getting a car mapped and not having the boost limit raised? With those breathing mods and a standard map , the ecu would struggle to compensate the fuelling and timing adjustments needed to reach the o2 sensors targets . Both that and a unmetered volume of air entering the engine (ie intake/boost leak) can confuse the maf , map and o2 sensor readings and flag a code Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Check all the intake pipework joins from air filter to turbo ,then from turbo to fmic core and core to throttle body. If you pop a boost or intake hose it will loose all power , stall and not start Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

What year is it .any mods or recent work done Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

We did have someone ask about this before , i put a few pics up of the route my break lines take ,As my v1sti doesn't have abs as standard . Unsure if you'd need a new master cylinder or just re route the lines . You could try giving Alyn at asperformance a bell in the new year as I'm sure he'd probably come across the question before . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

You'd probably be better off getting a quote from a local powder coaters for the blasting and painting . Luckily my old 4 pots had been used as a "test set" and had been blasted and painted fairly recently . So i just did a colour change on fresh paint myself . I bought my uprated stainless steel pistons and seals from Ian at Godspeed to refurb them with . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

A few people have asked me this lately , so here's my (long winded) opinion [emoji848] I think most "mainstream tuners" say it's not worth the gains to their customers and i agree . With off the shelf reverse inlets costing over a grand , alternator relocation , intake pipework re direction , materials and labour. it's probably cheaper to buy a bigger turbo and push more boost through it . I found a tatty second hand phase 1 reverse inlet "kit" for £100 , so it only cost me about £250 including paint and pipework [emoji6] Can i feel any gains ? Don't know ,tbh [emoji23] ive had various map tweeks, mods and even a reshell since building the engine and fitting it to my old v3 uk . But after a long drive i can now easily keep my hand on the fmic pipework just before the throttle body , without burning my hands like i used too . Anything that helps lessen heatsoak and gives less bends in less pipework, logically makes sense to me [emoji851][emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Couldn't believe that it all came from a bird tbh[emoji848] ..... spoiler, boot, rear screen , rear quarter, bumper and rear wheel all covered in one "foul swoop" [emoji849] Lucky enough i hadn't even had time to put the hose pipe away before it happened Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Chucked a sponge at it for the last time this year , shame a albatross shat on the whole driver's side rear end before id even finished [emoji849] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I used to run the stock pcv set up on my old uk and currently run a catch can , so have no stock oil breather system in situ . I couldn't say if a faulty pcv would cause the oil to break down sooner but if it seized in the shut position , id imagine it would cause exessive crankcase oil pressure . Oil grade threads are normally a can of worms on any forum and although i doubt a change in brand of oil would hurt , it would probably be nice to know where the oil is going before filling up with £60 's worth of millers . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Dare say they left the recirc on to save blanking the recirc air return pipework that goes to the intake tract . Lazy but still effective [emoji16] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Yeah the classic tank has a hump in the middle to clear the diff underneath , so hard right hand corners can cause fuel slosh and cause fuel cut . You can fit a swirl pot and 2nd "lift" pump or.. just dont give it beans round a right hander with less than half a tank [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Id eco spidey and say that a td04 turbo should hit full boost by 3.5k , so it will probably feel a bit tame under 2.8k . Noise could be quite a few things but id start by checking for boost leaks (especially if you feel its down on power) or the secondary air pump could be at fault but if so it's usually accompanied by a fault code on ecu . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Im on the south suffolk coast and a friend of mine had the 555 decals fitted to his v3 sti v limited . If your close to me , i can ask where he had his done , as they made a cracking job of it Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I bought some new shocks for my old v3 uk from import car parts, think they were about £60 each for standard spec replacements . Otherwise pedders seem to get good feedback for the price Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

So do you have both fitted atm ? Or want to fit a d.v ? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I assume you haven't got any other gauges oil pressure / oil temp particularly? I always use millers nano drive oil but i fully forged mine . Dont think many use castrol other than for the diff. If the symptoms go after a fresh oil change maybe try some millers cfcs next time , to rule out oil degradation Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk