savage bulldogs

Glad to hear it's running better kay [emoji41] Shame it's pushing coolant out [emoji57] Hopefully you've just nipped a crossover "O" ring on assembly or its coming from the bottom header tank pipe . Rather than it pressurising the coolant system with combustion gasses (headgasket symptoms ) . 2.35 is probably the build route I'll take when my current engine goes pop , well that and when I've saved enough in the scooby modding pot[emoji12]

Hi n welcome, what did you get ? Feel free to post some pics , we like pics [emoji6]

Popped out for a pint of milk and some v power ..... scalped 3 German "fast cars", refilled with v power (again) and returned home 1 hr later with very frothy milk and a cheesy grin [emoji2] Latte's all round it is then [emoji39]

Looks like you've tried most things I'd try to get it undone (soaking in wd ,heat ect) Make sure you use a hex socket and not a "multi point" socket as this will help you not to round the bolt head off . If it's a rear caliper and you can't get the room to get a bigger bar on it .you might be better off removing the hub ,caliper ,disc assembly and getting it in a vice . Although that will mean you'll have to re bleed the brakes and get a 4 wheel alignment done once re fitted , it might lessen the chance of having to drill out the old bolt and having to re tap or helicoil the old thread . I'd also bear in mind that the caliper might need the thread helicoiled afterwards anyways, as the ally brembos are prone to stripping the threads on removal.

Mrs bought the scoob a billet adjustable actuator and a few different strength springs. Unfortunately it's been fitted and mapped in already ,so there's shiny scooby stuff under the tree for me [emoji57]

Yep I wouldn't mind seeing what's involved in fitting nos, another 50 ponies would be sweet

Thank fook ...... I can finally hang my trowel up untill next year [emoji41] I can now get into the festive spirit today. ...well I'll open the vodka at lunchtime [emoji12]

Yep +1 on oil starvation due to exessive cornering (when on track or low on oil) or a broken oil pick up but I can't say I've heard of a pump seizing before . Even the uprated oil pumps that rcm sell are a standard subaru item with a uprated pressure release valve .

Imo Maintenance is never that much fun[emoji19] but it is a necessity and can sometimes lead to a cheeky upgrade [emoji6] Although i dont know much about wagon spec , Being a v1 it should have individual coil packs on top of each spark plug ? If so they don't run ht leads and either a newage coilpack conversion or new classic coilpacks are the only way to refresh the sparks [emoji57] Good news is most v1 & v2 jdm imprezas have the top entry tdo5 16g as standard . As it was only the uk versions that had a top entry tdo4 (well on the saloons anyways ) [emoji6] .

If the clutch fluid looks a bit black try a fluid refresh , as it often gets forgot at service intervals [emoji6]

Easiest way to tell is they normally pressurise the coolant system and force it out of the overflow bottle. That could be a air lock or faulty thermostat too ,so a sniff test for combustion gasses in the coolant system would be the best bet if you have those symptoms. Otherwise a compression test would let you know if the gaskets blown between cylinders or oil ways . As for the best place to get it fixed that depends on opinion and the area your in bud

I run osram "night breakers" for headlight bulbs . Led "ebay " side lights . Seems to have brightened up the road at night a bit but still like candles compared to my hids on my last motor [emoji57] I also fitted Depo smoked bumper indicators and side repeaters but that was cos the Mrs said the oe orange ones made it look like a orion [emoji33] Personally I don't think you can beat the oe v3 onwards sti rear lights on a gc8 saloon /type r back end [emoji41] But expect to pay £150 + for a second hand set [emoji6]

I did have a bit in the plastic battery tray once but I released the battery tie down , shifted the tray over a bit and re tightened the clamps . It now misses the tray on the passenger side and the v1 hasn't got abs , so it just sits on the chassis leg on the drivers side ,untill driven

Both of my classic turbo's had that hole in the vent under tray (without a grommet in it) and get water sitting on the chassis legs . I just assumed it was a drain hole for rain water and they'd designed it to drip on the bodywork . As otherwise it might cause a electrical fault if it dripped too close to the spark plugs or engine ?

Have a search on here for classic model codes , you'll have trim ,paint and gearbox (to find the ratio ) codes . They also help identify what parts you need if you want to replace/ upgrade something [emoji6] .

Lovely looking early classic , nice choice [emoji41] The model and paint codes will be on the passenger side front turret written on a ally id plaque [emoji6]

Yeah I bought my old classic uk turbo ally front droplinks from them and was well happy with them . Only did about 8 k on them but they didn't fit the ally wishbones on the v1sti [emoji57] But hey my loss was stants gain .... as they're currently doing their thing on his fozzy now [emoji5]

I run Whiteline "pigtail" rears but the likes of super pro ,Whiteline or cdf do solid rear "c shape" droplinks which have less give in them . Try to get a adjustable rear arb which 3 hole settings in each end that the droplinks attach to . As it gives you a option to adjust the roll stiffness by simply attaching the droplinks to the arb in a different position (10 mins work )

Sorry Jeff, I ment uprated bar , new arb bushes and "refresh" the droplinks with either oe or aftermarket new ones ( if there's play In them) I've left the front bar standard as my coilovers and engine weight keep the front flat anyways (it now kicks the back out just before the front which I prefer )

Yep +1 for a thicker rear arb and droplink refresh being 1 of the cheapest and noticeable handling mods . As it tends to keep the rear end "flatter" when cornering and dials out some of the factory understeer [emoji6]

Did you have any codes on the ecu ghost ? If it's the ecu that's been adding fuel a ecu reset might put it back to the original fuelling map done by your mapper ?

Hi n welcome, there's quite a few air strips and tracks in the area . I think most use track day companies like "open track" or "javelin track days " or there's some that do a 1 mile long terminal speed events nearby. As a club we go to santa pod for the japshows and some have a bash at the 1/4 mile while we're there but not any track days as of yet .

Tbh I struggle to put a point across in text , it doesn't look like it will always read the same way as originally intended in everyone else's eyes after I've posted something. I try to look at things from from all angles before making a decision and try to make my own judgments based on my own experiences. Saying that i do feel like i need to clear a few points up now too lol . The 22b boys know far more than me about running scoobies ,that was only MY opinion why he's not on there much Not fact .As I've only ever posted on there a couple of times in the tech section when I'm stumped on something . They've always been been nothing but helpful and I no nothing of their opinion . I also don't know if Duncan has any previous technical experience before he started tweeking on the local forum. So I'm definitely not saying that he's not capable or experienced enough . Or do I wish to sway people away from using him . It was more (another) opinion ,put across using constructive criticism to make a solution. As I've found Keeping the customer in the loop, even if it's to tell them your to busy to pop round yet , goes a long way in business. I haven't got any personal issues with my esl map years ago . Although everything on the engine ,fuel system ,exhaust system , tmic ect had been refreshed . The turbo and fsh piston slappy engine were on 94k mls . I now know The extra engine noise (piston slapp) when cold could have well tricked the ecu into thinking its reading heavy knock . I'd imagine that it would add fuel to lessen the chance of knock and the engine eating itself . my current apexi ecu reads very high knock numbers due to the noisy race spec Mahle pistons but when on the dyno no knock is heard . Best bit of advice I could give to anyone thinking about getting a remap would be..... Do a full service , make sure it's running right "as is" (no misfire, holding back ect ) book in a remap on a dyno . fit any mods just before going to the dyno . take your standard bits with you in the boot (if you've fitted mods) They should do a run "as is " when you get there (if no major mods have been added) this should show up any issues that might need sorting before upping the boost . Remap on the dyno with afr ,boost ,hp,flbs on a printout . Road check at all throttle positions to tweek gear load and tps . Then Generally if the engines in good nick and the dyno graphs are right you'll have the right results which ever respected tuner you choose imo

No need for apologies bud [emoji106] Were all on here to share our experiences and help each other wherever possible. Obviously opinions will vary on taste , styles and preferences and we can only really give advice based on our own experiences. You'll get good and bad opinions on here regarding various tuners ,hopefully then people can make their own decisions having known both sides . Rather than a !Removed! slinging storm lol

I had the same issue with a esl daughter board map , still not sure if the esl or the mapper was to blame tbh . As it might have been my old noisy uk lump (piston slappy) that tricked the ecu into thinking it was getting exessive knock on cold starts and adding fuel to the map . Either way the Mrs has said I can go on a couple of courses next year ..... and I'm gonna learn the dark art of mapping so I can do it myself as well [emoji41]