Jay762

The garage I use always contact me for things like this - quick phone call to say they have found something how to proceed plus an approx cost to fix - looks like they will have included a load of labour to remove sheared bolts, repair threads etc - which may well have been the right solution but as we say in consultancy - never surprise the customer

Pity Subaru dont have it as a retro fix and issue a notification - but that costs money...

In both the STi and the RX you can feel it when you turn the aircon on - there is a slight drop in power, may not impact mpg but you just get there slightly slower

At least you asked

Wotcha and welcome!!

looking good there matey

As above - 2008 on have issues - although I had none with mine. The Subaru map / patch was supposed to address it but many 330's still failed - we also had a CS400 owner on here who potentially had the same thing - I would recommend an aftermarket map specific to the car itself. Plenty of cars have been sorted so you have the opportunity to get something that will be reliable. Some failures were also attributed to oil starvation so if you are looking to spend time cornering hard and with consistent high revs look at a baffled sump or even a dry sump solution. Other than that great cars and I am looking forward to owning another

West Mids me

@Owen369 - something to bear in mind / take advantage of??

I had my bike run in on dyno after rebuild - good solid compression achieved and no oil burning. It is a great way to get a decent mating between the components

OK completed some research and all pulls came out around 11.0 - 11.1 - 11.2 etc Irrespective of mode the 0-60 relies a lot on 1st gear Sport mode doesn't give any more power just hangs onto the gears longer So 11.0 - 11.5 is your lot

Well on road to recovery there - you will reap the rewards soon enough

all sent to test you chum

what tools do you need?

can you see down to the pad and disc surface? - if possible look to see if the small gap increases or decreases as you rotate the wheel hub and disc

Try Opie oils and use the club discount code http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-2354-lookup-results.aspx?vehicleid=9057&variantlist=98436:0,98525:0,141866:0,98583:0,99134:0,98676:0,98847:0,121878:0,131667:0,98318:0,98370:0,98925:0,128370:0,128382:0,169995:0,197618:0,197905:0&yearFilter=2006

the one lot I cured same day - the other lot I left over night before curing - both come out same result. Think I will go back to brush and can - Hammerite work back in the day might even go for some smoothrite - never used that

brake caliper and associated mounting bracket - so cast steel stuff

Is the knocking cyclic with speed of wheel turning? - not familiar with setup but is the handbrake linked to main caliper or a drum type setup on inside of disc or applying pads to disc normally? do you have a dial gauge as I have had a similar thing and turned out to be a slightly warped disc?

Prepping with clutch and brake cleaner to do a final de grease

its extreme high temp paint by E Tech engineering http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120862122270?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Used this stuff on a couple of occasions - follow the instructions on can, clean and key surface, spray in thin layers, touch dry between layers, leave to dry for an hour or two at room temp, cure at 160ºC for 30 - 60 mins but both times it has wiped off as a powder. What am I missing / doing wrong?

Wotcha and welcome!!

I believe the center insert is the same across the models - The STI bumper is wider to blend with flared arches. Yes the Zunsport option fits over the front of the lower holes but behind the upper holes and inside bonnet scoop

ODB adapter turned up today so will be playing with the Dyno app