Jay762

Looking good 👍

yup front facing red is illegal - unless you drive a Knight Industries Two Thousand

Do you have a photo of the head unit as mine will default to a language option setting if I do not 'agree' to the initial drive safe statement

Given what you have completed already - are the sensors getting interference?

more info here https://incartec.co.uk/Subaru/Forester-2002-2008 ttps://www.crutchfield.com/S-L6MXH3m1xnq/learn/2003-2008-subaru-forester.html

be aware if you remove the top plug before the bottom plug oil comes out a lot faster 😁

Rear diff is easy - I use a nitrile syringe and small piece of tube to replace the oil

Well if you fancy relocating to West Mids area I am scouting properties at the moment.... 😉

try this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Impreza-WRX-STI-2004-2014-Haynes-Workshop-Manual-89080-NEW/202820981553?hash=item2f39129331:g:UAEAAOSwv7ldyvlp

Yup that is what I am doing with mine - blowing over with gloss black rattle can

Surge tank kit assembled and mounted, next bit will be electrical string & relays plus fuel pipe Test fit Trimmed, drilled and bolted down I may add a layer of rubber or part of the boot liner, post cut, for pump vibration isolation

TBF I did not replace the seals as there was no leakage just de rusted, cleaned then chased the threads and replaced with stainless steel items to prevent further corrosion

Not sure what light fitting you have (HID xenon or not) Check this site for aftermarket options and LED upgrades - eg if it is an H7 dipped bulb you could go for a night breaker which will throw out a much brighter beam https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk Another brand I use a lot are MTEC bulbs which are very bright in my high beam - they give the local chelsea tractors arch eye when I remind them they are driving with high beam on 😆

both 5w and 10w are acceptable just ensure they are decent oils - JASO API certified etc plus we get discount at OPIE oils so as well as pointing you in right direction you can get some money off

Fun times ahead 🐵

Sounds like that could be it - I managed to source a rack from a breakers - £160, a saving of £800 over a new one from Subaru

Do you actually see a flow of fluid back into the fluid reservoir? As you have already replaced belt and pump the only thing remaining is the rack....?

check here as it depends what size you want to run PCD is 5x100 but offset varies https://www.wheel-size.com/size/subaru/xv-crosstrek/

Hi - it is an open block Even if it is standard, budget for a bespoke map (if not done already) as previously mentioned, this will protect against lean running at hi revs and also give midrange boost plus some members have seen better mpg. Keep us posted

nightmare - didn't you start with a blown bottom end?

Wotcha and welcome The 2.5l engine is susceptible to ringland failure on standard pistons particularly on number 4 cylinder. Forged internals will help with this as well as an aftermarket map - not necessarily for more power but to sort out the lean running at high revs. Standard front strut 'top hats' can go signified by a 'clunk' when slowly rolling forwards or backwards then braking. rear arches have a lip as do all scoobs so feel under for bubbling Interior paint trim on doors etc is thin - not a huge expense to touch up but area for negotiation - check door cards in particular Check the rear quarter panel between window and hatch the panels are thin and can dent if someone has lent on the car. Also look along roof - if the car has been parked under a tree you can get dimples where things have landed check the rear brakes are not seized Is there an add for the one you are considering?

I use ODB "TORQUE" app on phone with bluetooth ODB connection and also TACTRIX module for extra settings and detail

Looks super clean - would budget for a 6 speed box as Tidgy mentioned

I would go for the exhaust swop first - easy move, keep us posted

Not Subaru but without realizing I drove my Merc vito with two defective glow plugs - performance was rubbish as was mpg but it still went with no damage