Tidgy

if you can find a 2,5 thats been rebuilt then it will be fine, the 2,5's when they are built right make an epic road engine

Meat ware issues, aka the meat behind the wheel haha, are the same across the models tbh no mater the brand your gonna get that. The 2.5 issue is a % problem, aka the failure % on them is alot higher than any other engine in the range. The faults are well documented, head gakets and ring lands, but the cuases of the failure is the unknown. I know of some 2.5's that get beaten with a big stick repetedly and dont fail, then others that get kid gloves and fail. What i can tell you is do the pistons, headgaskets and headstuds and you wont have any issues after that, asssuming your not going big power of course

yeah, at the time would have had to have pretty much sold everything bar the mrs haha. At that time they had been bombing in price with no signs of going back up again, the one that was up for sale sold for 23k 12 months before so 5k drop in 12 months 😮

it's a 2.5 so its pot luck. People say alot of things about the cause of the failures, but i know cars that have everything done to try to stop it and they still fail. drive it, enjoy it and if problem comes up just get it sorted.

seems to be hit and miss if it works, also if you use the wrong chemical then will damage it.

I cant see them ever being that desirable myself, i nearly nought a 22b for £18k about 10 years ago,god am i gutted now 😞

yep, modify it right or it will blow up in your face. Also people seem to think becuase they can buy it for 5k, its a 5k car come service time, no its a 30k car come service time

there arnt fromt eh origional manufacturer, they are just copys, and typicly poor ones at that

How about a thread for funny giffs,

cheap turbo's are just poor quality copies, they tend to not perform and not last very long.

tgv delete adds no power, they only work for about 30 seconds when the car fires up, they can however cause issues if they fail, so people remove them for reliability rersons.

iirc side feed is v1-4 classic only, although im not 100% on that so need to confirm with supplier

it will need mapping for the front mount, should still idle ok so you may have nocked a sensor or coilpack adn thats cuasing the duff running

someone else will have to answer that as im not fully up on the codes

depends if its a garage or just a dyno place with a mobile mapper.

will need mapping as soon as they are fit as the fueling will be waaay too much. but they will do the job

just confirm with them they are the right fitment

yeah for that power level the sti's should be fine, need to make sure they are flow match and tested before use though if they are second hand

looking back at my emails mine are decapped and flow matched standard hawk sti ones, bear in mind its very different application though as they are good for 500+

uh, you dont know whos mapping it? is it on a dyno? injectors or fpr should do it. i cant remember what brand mine are tbh

whos mapping it? really bad as engine will lean out, but decent mapper will see it and stop the run. At that point its a choice between getting what you can and backing off the map, or swappng parts

will find out when its maped, its one of those that some cars are ok, some dont. might be able to find some sti injectors that will do the job

should be ok with FPR, but no way to tell till its tried. inlet pipe wont be a limiting factor so no need

ah sorry, missed the turbo swap, will be a vf35 i expect so should see 320 ish assuming it has the fuel, may need a fuel pressure reg and 3 port boost sol to get the best form it

whp is an americamism and not used over here. 280 will be at the flywheel though factor in about 25% loss (varies depending on alot of factors), so roughly 210 at the wheels