stants

Oof ! I picked mine up from savage so got them at a decent price, maybe have a look on the bay, the silver set from ipc look a bit more robust than the subaru ones, ah well the d bushes should last a couple of years before the wear. What is your model code ? I'll dig around

Got to take into amount of people in car and how much fuel,between 5-6seconds is still rapid. How about we get an unoffical test on haha

Go uprated ones mate, the standard ones are rubbish and will need replacing again in the not to distant future. How hard do you want the ride ? Polly bushes are good and a one time replacement but they don't absorb the bumps as well as standard rubber whitline/superpro ones are about fifteen quid for the dbush

Hmm not too sure to be honest [emoji55]

Yes get the boots they are only a couple of quid each and have a bunpstop in, plus it will save all the crap from geiltting into the dampers

May be worth opening that one and topping off and putting the cap on the rad as the bubbles will come out of the highest point (header tank)

!Removed!

I can't see there being that much maybe it's more to do with underneath and ic cooling ??

For the rubber triangles where the mirrors are ?

Yes rad/header same difference, with the cap off it won't build pressure so it won't go everywhere

Hi auto's in Manchester do it scoops for different models

Yep, wasn't sure if the newage had same set up. Worth a go at re bleeding. Have you checked the ecu codes for any faults ?

What colour you gone for this time ?

Maybe intake it your getting warn air into the cabin ? Easiest way to burp is either jack up the front of car, or park uphill. Get a helper makes life so much easier while they squeeze bottom hose you keep an eye on the header tank (do newage have them ?) Check for bubbles and top up as required

Yeah I need to book the day off or finish early as I'm not sitting on the m62/180 in traffic for ages [emoji35] You moved house yet ?

You switched ecu's yesterday?

Or could be mapped to clutch pedal and injector cycle open for a fraction longer so extra fuel gets dumped into the bores when clutch depressed. There's a couple of ways of doing it

I'm aiming to get over maybe next month or July

Great news she's back on rhe road, did you get the brake led sorted in the end

Stays solid, I've plugged in the diagnostic software I have and it reads about 86-87° which sounds about right

I wouldn't worry too much mate, I put a new rad in and changed the coolant in feb for some longlife stuff seems to be more effective at cooling as my needle now sits a fraction lower and I don't get as much coming into the expansion bottle. Of your worried just keep a small mixed bottle of coolant in the boot and keep an eye on it, or if you're got an android phone get a bluetooth dongle and the torque app then you'll be able to measure your temps a bit more accurately

Ok well maybe the coolant you can smell is being forced out the expansion bottle when hot, the level should be on min when cold and around the max mark when hot

No worries mate, sorry I couldn't have been of more assistance. You should be able to order a key but I've no idea how much the'll try and sting you for as it will need coding etc Are you having to make it up to all parties now ?

Do you loose a bit of torque with lightweight pulleys ?

Hi mate glad you got the temp sensor sorted but not good about the other possible issues, I wouldn't worry about the rad being non oem loads of motor factors sell replacmemts as subaru rads a weak and distort and split on the ends like yours did , easiest way to check for air is to run the car for a bit check each end of the rad and the bottom hose if one side or the bottom hose is cold then you'll need to bleed it more, What does your temp gauge read when warm ? The coolant smell could be just a spillage and as it's boiling point is around 230°c it's still sitting on the block or undertray. How full is the expansion tank on the right when cold ?