savage bulldogs

Better start taking turbo scoobs for a test drive then David [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Just spoke to you and used this code [emoji106] Got nano drive oil ,Mahle oil filter ,oe fuel filter and sump plug washers for about the same price just the oil normally costs [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Double posting tapa crap

I was lucky as somebody I knew was upgrading to 8 pots . I paid £350 for the refurbed brembos ,nearly new godspeed discs/redstuff pads and k sport braided lines The main thing to watch out for is the mounting threads and bleed nipples, cos being ally bodies the threads can get damaged if they're not torqued down properly. Ask about with some of reputable breakers (matty b or Scott at scooby spares ect ) you should be able to get good condition calipers discs and pads for £500 ish . Speak to someone with them on a 350hp newage and check your rims will fit over them Cos my 17" et43 rota boosts only fit with 3mm spacers [emoji57]

Think your current 4 pots run 293 discs, you can buy conversion brackets that bring you up to brembo sized 328 dia ( which I'd imagine would make a difference) although brembos are 4 pots they're ally (lighter and don't often seize) ,have bigger pistons and have a bigger contact surface area on the face of the pads . I noticed the difference but I've got a 22yr old sti without abs (it's a bit primitive lol ) Maybe one of the newage boys has done the conversion and would know if they'd be a noticeable difference on yours If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

My mate just bought a 330d [emoji30] So I sent him this [emoji23]

Unfortunately new rotas ,bells and pads for most big break kits will cost over £400 new ,so even if you picked a second hand set of calipers up you'd be very close to your budget I'm currently running brembos on my 330hp classic , with godspeed discs and red stuff pads .which work great when hot but I will be changing the pads to something more suitable for fast road as they haven't got enough "bite " when cold 😉. If you decide to go brembo ,Give Alyn @ as performance a bell or message him on social media (cos his website is a bit button moon) . he'll point you in the right direction once he knows your budget for discs n pads . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

No worries bud[emoji106] there's a few more random v3/v4 in that photobucket library i dont wanna spam your thread with usless pics but you can click the link and flick through the library to see if any others help . If you do have a squint v3/v4 phase 1.5 is either standard unpainted inlet or blue The red custom reverse set up is v1 phase 1 so slightly different [emoji6] Boost on a v4 top port turbo outlet Bottom port to "t" piece which 1 end goes to actuator and i think the other goes to a plastic elbow that connects to the underside ofthe big bore flexi intake pipe between maf and the hard pipe that runs under the inlet manifold Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

No probs, you'll have to get a few more vids up of this years racing i think I've only ever seen the 1 😉 Have you just removed the abs or fitted a earlier 94> master cylinder ? While they didnt have the engines in i used a bit of machine cleaner and give em a jet wash ,cos it makes it easier to spot a leak ,stops me getting dirty hands when fetteling ....and helps with my scooby ocd lol Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

I think it's called the pcv (dunno what pcv stands for tbh and mine has a bolt bunging the hole lol ) but the breather y pipe off the crank has 1 pipe from the passenger side head , its connected directly to the bigger bore crank outlet and a pipe that goes to a valve in a hard pipe directly under the throttle body . Fairly sure that the drivers side just vents into the intake tract between maf and turbo Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

I can't see the line in the 97 bay (unless i had removed it) But you can see it in the v1 bay without the abs ,its got a black heat shield on it and runs in the direction of the clutch slave cylinder Does it follow a different route to yours in the 2nd pic ? Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

After thinking about it i couldn't picture the route of the line being that complicated on my current 94 v1 jdm but what you said did ring a bell . I think it took a different route on my abs'd 97 v3 uk I'll dig out a couple of pics of the engineless bays [emoji6] Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

Sorry didn't spot this Not that im much help as to why the clutch hard line seems to take a strange route but there's a trader on s.n that does sell braided clutch lines .as i nearly bought some a while back [emoji6] Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

Na it's quite simple when you've got it in bits in front of you , just sounds complicated when i try to explain it lol once the weather's better I'll get a few pics of how mines connected and show what pipes you have to bung when you install it 😉 Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

How many ports has it got stants ? Cos although there's 3 main breather outlets 2 of them are "t" 'd together on the oe breather system . 1 head breather goes into the "y" pipe off the crank breather which leads to the valve under the throttle body . The other head breather goes to the turbo intake after the maf (this one needs to be blanked off when fitting the catch can ) So when i fitted my current one i used a 2 port and "t"d the head ones together . the only reason i could think it would make any difference not to connect the 2 heads together would be if it needs to equalise the pressure between crank and head but if so why are they not all connected together? Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

Nice jigsaw 😆 I've always taken them to bits before trying to put one together, so credit to you for getting so far fella 👍 The factory vac lines in these motors are pretty complex and tbh most of mine is now in the bin (charcoal canister,purge system and oil breather system) I've got a few pics of v3/v4 inlet with the oe loom with vac lines attached and a few of a standard v3 bay (I'll chuck em at the bottom of my post) As for the boost vac lines you can run a single vac line from actuator to turbo outlet then plug /cap any other boost vac lines (that suck) and it should run at "actuated boost" (about 0.5 bar) .which would be safer than letting the ecu or boost controller trying to run high boost untill you at least get the afr checked (preferably dynoed) . I'm fairly sure the top port (closest to the throttle body when fitted) on the purge valve goes to the top of the throttle body . i think the bottom port goes to the vac hard line that runs under the inlet too the charcoal cannister I've got a few more pics including some of the charcoal cannister but unfortunately im now running a custom phase 1 inlet so can't take any more ,let us know how you get on and if you get her running try to stay off boost until you know its running right [emoji6] Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

Guess I can expect a few whats apps soon then [emoji39] How much was it stants? cos I'm thinking of relocating mine and like the idea of it being baffled as it might ease the smell a bit

I think the scd blobeye jdm sti bottom end is at its limits at 450hp but im unsure what the limits are on a odb with forged internals ,although i had read that pre v4 classic rods are known to bend at 380hp . I think most uk turbos only get mapped to 320hp but whether thats due to deck type , internals or cams i couldn't tell you . Any idea what hp you want ?

Nice figures 👍sti power for the cost of a zorst and remap 😎 Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

She's 22 yrs old in a few months, so it's not as mint as I'd like when you get close up [emoji57] it definitely keeps me busy trying though [emoji5] I probably post to many pics of the scoob on here and just assumed that you'd like a few of me instead gambit ..... After all you did admit to lurking in the bushes outside my house[emoji16] if they stopped blowing !Removed! hondas up on the 1/4 mile and making me start /stop my approach i might not have got so slap happy with the go pro buttons lol

That's a good price for 560's[emoji106] but they'll be top feed injectors so unfortunately they won't fit classic side feed rails [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Could be a faulty actuator or boost solinoid opening the waste gate to soon ? they'll only get 1.2 bar from the standard map sensor unless they replace and rescale the map sensor for one off later v3 onwards If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I scoured the net for the cheapest prices and asked luke at icp to try to "price match" them [emoji6] think full gasket/timing roller set ,gates kevlar belt, acl bearings, block bolts ,Apr head bolts and it cost just under £ 1k . I then got cossie head gaskets and fluids else where . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Cheers Ant [emoji106] it's probably cost £450 and my time for the rails ,lines,fpr,inlet,paint and conversion pipes. Even if it's not running the power I'd hoped atm at least it looks pretty from a distance lol . Jay I had thought about moving the battery to the boot but I might fit a swirl pot in there ,to stop it fuel cutting under 1/2 a tank on righthand bends . It's not that I don't trust myself with fuel lines but I'm not a fan of having them in inclosed spaces with things that can spark . Plus the Mrs would get the hump if I couldn't fit the holiday cases in the boot of my daily [emoji39] I definitely need to sort out this speed sensor output issue......cos It's starting to get a bit busy with boost sensors under the bonnet [emoji16] oe map sensor /3 port solinoid, apexi fc lead and map sensor, apexi avcr map sensor ,avcr 3 port boost solinoid but until I've fitted everything and relocated the catch can I don't know exactly where everything is going [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Ideally if you can afford it ,phase 2's resized to 650cc would give headroom to 420hp . I'm running phase 2 nismos which are a oe Nissan injector that fit into classics with a tab filed off the injector plug [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊