savage bulldogs

Dunno if it's common practice but I was advised to leave the cams out over night and re check the final torque setting the next day (to let everything settle) When I did use boost to start off with it was just low down in the Rev range . Also "engine braking " a lot helps with the bedding in process . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Nice work [emoji106] Don't forget to check all the gearbox driveshaft, prop and diff drive shaft seals while it's out . As they're only about £15 each and you'll be gutted if they leak once it's all back together [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'm running "happy shopper" 3mm spacers so my brembos fit under my rota boosts [emoji55] I've done about 4k mls without any issues, think they were £12 from a local "motomainia" shop . I wouldn't use them any bigger than 3mm without longer studs . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Cylinder 1 and 3 are on the drivers side , (right bank) but I'm unsure what side is ment by "bank 1 " . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Bulldog was 9 ,which was a good age for the breed . Bearded dragon is only 3 yrs old but it just seemed to have gone rapidly down hill since we came back from holiday a couple of months ago . Dunno how the goldfish lasted 15 yrs in the first place tbh . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

My pets are dropping like flies [emoji22] Goldie the 15yr old goldfish went belly up in January. Liz the English bulldog past away a few months back (avatar pic). Stevie the bearded dragon is very ill and I doubt she'll see the week out. I dunno what's going on but I think I'm gonna upgrade the wifes life insurance sharpish. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Had some shiny scooby scraps turn up [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Might have a vac leak from the boost gauge pipework. Search for the classic self ecu code check on here . It will enable you to read the codes and reset the ecu [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Near colchester ,bud . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Dunno if your model is on there but here's a few free pdf files that I used for my classic build . http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

At least you only paid £1.5 k for it , so you can probably spend £2k on it and still have a bargain [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've got a 3" cat back with a 2.5" downpipe flange ,so it mates up to a standard length and size downpipe. £50 collected from Suffolk If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Well we ain't using my scoob as a company car ..... cos I've heard about your launches lol . If the new box n diff are the same ratio as your existing one and there's nothing wrong with it , I'd leave that in situ for now . As the rear diff carrier can be a pita to free up (rusty bolts ect) And if they're the same ratio you only need to remove from the prop forward . The front shafts can stay in the hubs just remove the drift pins on the inner cv's , undo the track rod ends and swing the leg out 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Coming along nicely, David [emoji41] Just be careful when reversing up a curb [emoji6] my mate ripped his big flaps off 2 days after he fitted em [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It looks like it smokes (steams) for 10 mins after start up ,if it's raining or it gets wet . I get some funny looks cos Mine has steam coming out of the scoop on rainy days [emoji33] [emoji23] But I've wrapped the headers ,up pipe and top of the turbo downpipe [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Getting stuck in then [emoji4] Nice work [emoji106] Give matt at mb development or Scott at pole position a google as both of them have recently broke a v7 jdm sti and might have the bit's in stock [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Cheers chap , word of warning though shiny bays are a nightmare. Soon as you put 1 painted or polished bit under the bonnet ...... all it does is make everything else look pony lol . Well there's no way the rails are gonna fit on the drivers side ,unless I can find a an6 elbow that's about half the size [emoji57] As the current 80mm an6 elbow fouls on the clocked coldside . I got Doug from "G19 " , a local fabricator that does mx5 turbo conversions , to swage the ends of the ally pipework I cut down and weld a take off onto 1 of the pipes. So I can move the blue pipe that used to stretch across the inlet manifold. He had this shed looking 1800 mx5 that was braced underneath for track ridgity and running a tdo5 for grins [emoji33] Doug also introduced me to meguires all metal polish [emoji41] So I bought some on the way home ,fitted the new intake and slapped some of the megs polish on all the ally under the bonnet At least now the rails are on the back burner all I have to do get some more wire heat shrink sleeve to splice the tomei maf plug in [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Once this hex plug is removed from near the starter motor . You then withdraw the shaft with a 6mm thread bolt to release the clutch fork out of the thrust race bearing. Everything else is fairly straightforward but giz a shout if you get stuck and let me know if you get the ball joint split . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Put a block of wood under the wishbone and jack the wishbone up till it almost lifts the car off the stands . This should push the taper on the ball joint tight into the hub to stop the nut spinning the taper . That method normally works but it can cause them to be a bit tight to get out of the hub once the nut is removed. Once the nut is off I use a trusty scaffold tube to put on top of the wishbone and under the car , then stand on the other end tapping the wishbone with a hammer around the ball joint to "shock" the taper free from the hub . Don't forget to remove the clutch fork shaft from the box before you try to separate the box from the engine. I'll find a couple of pics of the fork shaft removed, I normally use a cam cover bolt to withdraw the shaft (oh err lol ) once the hex plug shaft cap is removed If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Id Buy something with all the toys and a blown engine then build a powerful engine to go in it . But I can never leave anything stock for long lol . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It's a Ar 0.83 hotside bolted to a 2ltr cdb with v1sti ported heads ,gruppe headers and up pipe. seems to spool fairly well (1 bar @3.2 k in 4th ) . it made 375 hp at 1.2 bar on a mates forged 2ltr with uk cams but I'd be happy with high 300's tbh . As it's a road car and I doubt it will ever see any track time just the occasional blatt down the 1/4 @ the pod . It was my first attempt at building a turbo boxer lump but it's done 20k now (so I must have done something right lol ) tbh I'd like it to go pop so I could build a 2.1 .I couldn't squeeze the extra £800 for a thrust conversion and 2.5 crank past the Mrs first time around lol . Have you done many boxer builds and is it a hobby or job ? Either way nice machine you've built and I bet it shocks a few cars that cost a lot more to buy 😎 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Ordered up a box of ally pipework from "Ash" to try to neaten up the "frankenstien" temporary intake tract. Bit of chopping with the hacksaw and I'm now ready to get the icv take off welded on . Hopefully tomorrow's dry and I'll try to get the fuel rails fitted but it's not looking straight forward [emoji57] . the braided lines I bought we're parallel and reverse flow so cylinder 3, which is the last in the oe "series " fuel lines can't lean off. First issue is The fuel lab fpr was situated where my re located alternator is [emoji55] . So I've had to switch a few of the lines around to keep the reverse flow and move the fpr . Obviously the lines will run under the inlet once the oe fuel lines are removed[emoji6] there's plenty of clearance around the passenger side for the cdf rails and "an" fitted elbows [emoji41] But I think my "clocked" turbo coldside is gonna be in the way of the "an" fitment elbows on the drivers side [emoji30] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Here's a couple of pics with fuel pressure and a few multi meter readings that might be worth checking [emoji6] . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It would be nice to have it [emoji41] if my ecu was capable of it, I probably would just for the grin factor but I doubt I'd use both on the road . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Anti lag basically causes unburnt fuel to enter the headers ,which is ignited by the hot exhaust gasses in there causing a "pop ". It helps keep the turbo spinning and reduces lag (especially off the line) The "pop" is a mini explosion in the headers which creates extra wear on the full exhaust system /turbo hotside and creates extra heat in the bay . I'd go steady with the launch control with a ty52 box too [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊