Scoobyghost

If it was sold on that premise and you have it in writing then you've been misled. If it was genuinely misplaced then fair enough but you wouldn't be wrong to expect they pay for a key or they discount the price up you can buy one.

If I comment now, does it still count? [emoji57] [emoji6]

Do it!

Shame it weren't the front wing and door. Would have saved paying that out your own pocket [emoji6] Just get it all priced up anyway. Fleece the old girl [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23]

I'm with Kieth Micheal's with all mods declared for a good price. I don't think there is a Haynes manual but kayzarh seems to have the original workshop manuals. Failing that there's a wealth of knowledge right here to pick at.

Mileage as much of a guide it can be we all know isn't the rule [emoji6]

There is a mounting bolt on the exhaust to the gearbox. Check that hasn't come loose. If mine is out of position it will knock around the tunnel

Is it worth all that hassle and constant looks over your shoulder for the sake of a retest and being legal for the rest of your driving career?

Mine needed a press hence going for a second hand hub. Comes with risk of course but it was worth it to rule out a wheel bearing and so far it's paid off.

The police can check if it's a manual gearbox with the registration. If they doubt you they could ask you to show them at which point your gig is up. Then they'll probably throw the book at you including insurance fraud. That option is far more expensive than resitting your test so I'd advise to go get it booked.

The brakes have likely put extra strain on that bearing. I had a rear wheel bearing whine and no play in it at all. Iirc I paid £40ish for a complete hub from a breaker and it's been fine for past 9 months.

Breakers yard.

I'll take a few pictures of mine tonight and load them up if no-one has done beforehand. I'd suggest putting it all back to stock first to rule out any real problem with the car. Those manual controllers have the knack of breaking and then reeking havoc causing damage.

Could be Cam or crank sensor related. Is it more prone to stalling when hot?

I'm in 😈

That last bolt at the bottom back end was a pita [emoji23] [emoji23] Walked away from it a few times. Ratchet spanners are the way forward.

I did mine just on ramps. Never needed to shift the engine. Only did the drivers side at the time. It was fiddly. It was hassle and it took me longer than jt should've but I didn't need to rush. I used a little dab of grease to hold the gasket in place when offering the cover player back up. Cleaning the old sealant was the most difficult part, just gotta take your time. If the swear jar starts to fill up walk away and have a brew.

I'll go on the 1/4 but I'll keep my clothes on thanks

What plates are you after? Alex usually has some made up for Soc shows.

It can be that bad. You could always use 95 and have no issues but if you stick your foot down and the engine detects knock it will ret-ard the timing and you won't have full power. If the knock is so bad the car can't control it, temperatures can rise inside the cylinders leading to failure of components. I'm guilty of being caught short and sticking a tenner of 95 in it with no I'll effects but I wasn't treating it the same way. It's worth having a read up on knock/detonation and learning what it is and how to reduce the chance of it happening.

Welcome. Clutch depends on mods or future mods. Exedy blue box are oem and iirc good for 300ftlb or there is the pink box which are good for 350ftlb. Common issue for your year seems to be top mounts on the rear shocks. These turbos do favour the high octane fuel and if it has been remapped you will need to stick to the fuel it was mapped for.

If it's turbo stick to high octane. Lower octane fuel can cause det in the engine. If your car is an import and hasn't been mapped you will definitely need to use high octane fuel. If it has been modified again use high octane. It pays to get in the habit of using high octane. You may get caught short and 95ron will be OK but fill up the bare minimum and try to keep the revs low until you can get some real fuel and flush the cr@p through.

Resurrection! Found this on the bay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302011180883

All easily accessible. Simple job. I'd recommend watching someone do it first time round if you're worried.

3000 miles is a good service interval if you plan to keep the car and look after it. Oil and filter will only set you back £40-£80 depending on which oil you go for. Labour cost will obviously increase the overall price. Standard oem parts you could use importcarparts.co.uk Modified parts, the world is your oyster...almost. There are so many places offering bits.