Scoobyghost
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Everything posted by Scoobyghost
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Could be many causes. What fuel are you using?
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She's seen Santa pod and track time at silverstone now.
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173k here no engine rebuild. Did have a leaky gearbox seal which when replaced I had a couple of bearings and synchros replaced too.
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It is located here.... Inside that boost pipe and it looks like this... Little brass pill. It helps to control boost pressure.
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Do you still have the pill in place?
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Have you put some brake cleaner through the solenoid? Give it a flush through. I can't remember if you have a classic, if so you can connect the two green plugs under the dash and the car will run some basic operations. It will test the fuel pump, cooling fans and boost solenoid. While it's clicking away at the solenoid you can give it a squirt. Make sure to have a cloth below to catch any gunk or fluff.
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Cosworth panel. Nuff said [emoji23] [emoji23]
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https://www.s3i.co.uk/cross_clamps_90.php?pid=3087&gclid=Cj0KEQjw4J-6BRD3h_KIoqijwvkBEiQAfcPiBZXp0K9lBKWA6NvR6PYtVsCOzyoxAGxOO_4E8Y0j264aAgMh8P8HAQ
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You could something like this on it further up the cable after the latch so it makes the cable shorter.
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Maybe the cable has stretched or it's possible the handle in the footwell has bent. It'll still pull the cable but one the tension is too high the plastic will bend instead off pulling the cable further. I had that on an old hatchback
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Ha ha not at all. An engine tick will be hard to diagnose without hearing it in person. If you're topping up oil and getting a burn smell then we can link those two. A common leak is rocker covers. On the driver side more so as it's above the uppipe so becomes brittle with age. If the oil is leaking there it will sit on the uppipe and burn off. Do you get any blue smoke? Knocking shocks will likely be top mounts if you're hearing it at the top. Again a common fault. Power steering sounds like the belt loosens when everything warms up. Try to adjust it if slack or have a listen for a worn bearing in the pump or alternator pulley.
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We can do our best to help. What issues are you having?
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I'm on a standard 5 speed UK box. Just cost me 500 in repairs as it is. With UK ratio in at 2750rpm doing 70.
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A 6 speed conversion is mighty expensive. You'd need all the running gear and hubs from an sti for it to work. Shafts and duff, the whole shabang. Last set up I see on eBay was going for £1700. As for road noise, that means your zorst isn't loud enough. 😈😉 Has it got poly bushes, droplinks or arb upgrades? I noticed mine was a lot stiffer and fed a lot more road feel through the car after I upgraded those parts.
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Wahoo! Love an oil discussion. Prepare for a lot of different advice. First off, it will help if you could share some info about the car. Is it turbo? Any modifications? Mileage?.
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Did you get anything back from the original mapper?
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Stunning results. My steps are similar. Pull up Pay a fiver Drive onto conveyer belt Play on phone Realise I'm at the end Drive off You can't polish a !Removed! 😂 T u.r d got removed?....
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Depends how it was stored, if it was damp it's gonna be a mess Might have had a bowl of salt next to it to draw out the moisture.
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You will have to tell your insurance company if you do go for spacers. I see on this forum recently some insurers were refusing to cover the car with spacers.
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Been decatted?
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Do you have links to those websites? Ppp blob eyes as stants said had roughly 260hp from factory. If your centre section is narrower that would explain the drop in ponies but still a reasonable figure from a 2003 car.
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It will tell you power, torque, boost, afr and any signs of detonation if done at a decent facility. Some places only do "power runs" which will give you hp/torque.
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A company called East London transmission.
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Depends what work you need. I just paid £500 for new bearings, synchro's and seals in my box.
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You can remove the negative for a while or there is a longer version. There is a guide in the forum somewhere showing how to do it.
