Jay762

Put a ruler across them look for 10cm or 11 and a half - should give you good idea

Nice to hear some real world feedback

I have just read the 2017 STI will be running 19's so will be interesting to see what the reviews of that say... PS amended title as it took me ages to find this thread again

ahhh my mistake

Power from a 2.0 lump, hmmmmm..... depends on how far you want to go, both @Tidgy and @savage bulldogs are running 2.0 lumps with a reasonable power delivery, They have a great project threads here Or you could take it a bit further The Gobstopper 2 runs a 2.0 turbo and is reasonably nippy http://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/gobstopper-II

before you invest in new motors, try taking a panel off and cleaning up any electrical contacts, doesnt cost very much for some proper contact cleaner and the improved flow of wigglies may mean a better movement, you could check runners etc whilst you are in there as dependant if the car has been parked by trees they could be gummed up with sap.

They do look like they would be an improvement over standard

Absolute bargain there

Wotcha and welcome

Wotcha and welcome!!

Wotcha and welcome - got to be karma

Wotcha and welcome!!

depends on the time you have to spend on doing it, to get yours to a good starting point I would be using jizer and toothbrush on the oily / greasy bits then bag up your battery and alternator, apply snow foam all over leave for a while then jet was off with the least powerful jet. After that metal polish and toothbrush to get your alloy looking a bit better and silicone cleaner for the hoses etc. There is a thread on here somewhere with the results of a few hours spent on a bay, looks properly detailed, it did involve various sized brushes though - just cant remember who it was, possibly Salsa?? PS keep the jet wash away from your intercooler - you could take that off and clean separately

@oilman can give you plenty of detail but here are some http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-2354-lookup-results.aspx?vehicleid=22542&variantlist=98318:0,98370:0,98436:0,141866:0,98525:0,98583:0,99134:0,98676:0,121878:0,98847:0,98925:0,99163:0,128370:0,128382:0,169995:0,197905:0,197618:0,198095:0,207736:0,207985:0&yearFilter=2004 As a member of the forum you can also use the discount codes. I would use millars but have used mobil and castrol for many years with no issues. There are many opinions but as long as the oil you select has the industry standard compliance marks you shouldn't go far wrong

One caveat to my previous comment - I assumed you are not a dealer, if that is the case please post in the dealer section and drop @Steve a message as a courtesy

If you are limited to an unmodded (daughterboard) stock ECU I would go for the compressor map comparison - it would appear the wideband sensor you plan to install and a boost gauge are going to be your only key to how the engine is performing - You may run into issues around engine protection cutting in as whilst you can vary the boost of the turbo you will have to keep it to whatever the original setup was to avoid the possibility of fuel being cut A richly running engine with a bigger / more powerful turbo may still not be generating as much power as the original turbo with fuelling spot on.

Wotcha and welcome - feel free to get stuck in, all friendly on here and we do love a photo so dont be shy

Did you take photos of the discs and pads, may be useful to send them to EBC? I have not used the blue stuff myself and was only considering going as far as the yellowstuff. Have used the red and green products in the past with no issues. Have done a bit of reading on the PFC site and their products to look pretty effective, tempted to try some of the pads on my bike as an alternative to sintered pad option I currently have in place Pity they dont manufacture in UK which I must admit was one of my reasons for looking at EBC in the first place

there are places - ebay is a good place to start but... you will need the dimensions, thread pitch etc http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R1.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xbrake+caliper+bleed+nipples.TRS0&_nkw=brake+caliper+bleed+nipples&_sacat=0

Wotcha and welcome - I have sent photos to insurance company - took it as a chance to show off and share my graft and dollar spend because posting on this forum just isnt enough

after a bit more browsing an 18" option for you would give a 40 tyre wall, 19" 35 and 20" a 30 - the 19's and 20's dont give you much so if you are happy with the ride and are not going to push the cornering you should be fine

Also I think the latest version comes with 18's as standard, the Hatches I have had both came with 18's fitted as a dealer option

Think there was a thread discussing 19's on here somewhere but it may have gone - lost in the great data crash of 2012. I do recall it wasn't recommended but I I dont remember why. What I would say is that if the et is the same as standard, the tyre width is the same as standard and the rolling radius is the same you wont be putting additional strain on bearings etc upsetting speedo calibration and such like. You will however be running a tyre wall which is a lot smaller which will potentially give a lot harsher ride and could impact under hard cornering where the tyre moves laterally and you could end up with the wheel hitting the tarmac. So dependant on what you use your motor for you could get away with the right 19's - more for show / looks etc not track days

finally got around to giving her a wash, been meaning to for a few weeks now then had a go at repairing some scratches in the front headlight using a hairdryer, it was affective with the really shallow scratches so I had a go with a heat gun on the deeper ones. That did not go so well as the headlight now looks like it has a permanent white bird poo on it - doh !

Wotcha and welcome - I always put PIAA windscreen wipers on my motors as a first mod much better visibility in rain than standard. I put wheel H&R spacers on mine to fill out the arches, a K&N panel filter many other options available, I will be putting a cobra system on in the near future when the current system rusts through. Currently using basic EBC pads (£28 or so) which give decent feel with this system however these brakes do fade with a bit of spirited driving so I would consider braided brake lines and grooved discs with a flush through with 5.1 fluid