Jay762

just looking awesome - loving the welds - far superior to my pigeon poo results

Some great roads between the NE and Edinburgh and then they get even better further North you go

A little dustier than I remember post initial clean - a bit niggled at the amount of corrosion on the brackets not sure what the previous owners were doing, driving through rivers I think. Interesting looking at the different shaped manifolds across the ranges, the NA ones look like larger diameter tubes When I took ownership Today

What do you plan on doing with the wastegate outlets, VTA in the engine bay, additional piping?

Yes the ECUTek will use your existing ECU, there are other options, you can remap your existing ECU, replace the ECU as a whole (Syvecs etc) or add modules which will enable tweaking - Cobb etc - I would have the remap done first though. I would always go with whom you are confident will do a good job on your motor. Andy F - wealth of knowledge and great at what he does but as a consequence in demand - veeeerrrrry busy man so some patience may be required

anyone that does not need oil, cosworth, pipercross etc

Dont what is sadder - this actually made me chuckle

hmmm you sure that is not a chap taking a tree to the local tip Subaru style

glad to hear they walked away!

Wotcha and welcome!!

£400 for a license (or not see Matt and HLimes comments) that will support any mapping requirements in the future (just labour costs down the line), correct fuelling for your motor setup taking advantage of the existing mods, tuned for the higher RON fuel so potential for improved fuel economy and driveability, peace of mind as they should check for any fault codes. If you have the electronic / fly by wire throttle you can also option launch control with closed loop boost (gives a fixed constant boost during launch) flat foot shifting (very useful on the school or big shop run) downshift auto blipping, flexible fuel useage so allows you to run higher levels of ethanol (with the mods you have this could result in 400bhp), boost per gear settings allowing variable levels of boost dependant on gear and revs and some BHP and torque increases. 1bar does point toward standard map My hatch STI EJ25 with the dealer PPP mod put out about 330BHP but I know some tuners have taken the standard STI with circa 300BHP to 340BHP

Wotcha and welcome!!

Wotcha and welcome - start a thread in the wanted section and list what you need

Wotcha and welcome - love a two door classic me

Wotcha and welcome - Opie oils comes back with 5W-40 http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-2354-lookup-results.aspx?vehicleid=14891&variantlist=98318:0,98370:0,98436:0,98525:0,98583:0,141866:0,98676:0,98847:0,98925:0,99134:0,99163:0,121878:0,128370:0,128382:0,169995:0,197618:0,197905:0,198095:0,207736:0,207985:0&yearFilter=2002

A nice find there - cant see any rear arch bubbling

Wotcha and welcome - plenty of fozzy owners on here

The silver pipe in the picture connecting the air box to the black tube is what I understand to be the Zero sports intake tube. At this point save your money just go for a panel filter, Subaru (as do all manufacturers) spend a lot of time and money researching the air flow in and out of the engine. The stock filter can be restrictive so an aftermarket panel will help with that. I wouldn't be surprised if there is an aftermarket panel filter in there already given money has been spent on a shiny tube... When you want to start pulling your engine apart consider induction kits - or not - at that point, to hit 300bhp in that motor its not necessary. Given the apparent money spent already on hoses, FPR, exhaust etc I wonder if it has been mapped already??

Wotcha and welcome - do like that colour

behave....

The JDM versions were tuned for the higher RON which would give you a better performance - have no ideal about USDM though.... You may already have an uprated pump then if your have the FPR in place, filters, plenty to choose from go for one that doesn't need oiling, pipercross, cosworth etc. The zero sports intake pipe connects the airbox to the turbo intake I believe - do you have a photo of your engine bay, they are supposed to increase airflow in as well. It sounds like you have all the initial steps taken, my opinion go for the map, once you have the licence any further work is just dyno time.

If it was me - I wouldn't because I do not understand where the extra bhp comes from. If I could have the motor and the two ECU's and some dyno time to understand what is different between the two I would be happier (I have made some Max Power inspired cheap mods in the past and it has resulted with increased cost, in some cases a dangerous motor and the realisation that a lot of the 'experts' they were interviewing were clueless or deliberately lying) . If your buddies across the pond can throw some light on what the differences are then it would de-risk it somewhat. The map itself - as far as I know and will always stand to be corrected - will not correct for the fuel type it is set up to run rich so can cope with a wide variety of fuel qualities. The table the computer refers to will have a fixed set of figures that will be used dependant on revs, throttle position, pressure and air flow. This means there is no learning function of the map itself. When a car is mapped for a specific fuel it means the look up table parameters have been changed to suite the higher RON fuel burn characteristics with the Air fuel ratio remaining constant. If you then go back to a lower RON the mixture will then be off because the tolerances for fuel qualities are no longer there I dont know but I would guess that the USDM may be running slightly higher boost to get the higher BHP, that way the fuel map remains constant across the range. If that is the case you could address that on your own motor with the existing ECU and boost controllers or adjusting the wastegate controller but then my risk averse flag is waving as if you are to do that why not get it done with an associated map and ECU settings tweaked to accommodate the increase in boost. prior to your engine plans as an interim step I would suggest a high flow fuel pump, panel filter and a cat back exhaust with less restrictive resonators (consider a sport cat at additional cost or de-cat link pipe for less ;) ) and a map you will realise an easy 300 bhp and probably get better fuel economy with peace of mind that you wont be melting pistons etc Any additional engine work will then potentially be complimentary to those mods (obviously if you go FMIC, twisted turbo etc it wont)

Check this website as you can get a loom addition for the 08- motors that will move the mirrors when remotely locking the car - I agree though that should be included from new, might be worth dropping them a line to see if something is available for your motor? https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/18147

A bespoke map on your standard car has the potential to get the car running more efficiently and give greater driveability, the generic subaru map tends to have cars running rich to protect the engine for a large degree of operating parameters, height from sea level, temperature and fuel quality etc. If you put a high flow panel filter with a higher flowing exhaust system compared to standard (sports cat, straight through link pipes etc), replace the fuel pump with something that supplies slightly higher pressure to ensure your motor doesn't run lean during tuning and something like an ECUtek map which will then tailor the fuel to the new airflow. The ECUtek license will stay with you so even if you then rebuild the engine it will only require a map / dyno time and not the additional cost of the license. On a slightly more risk averse note some dyno time and a map will give an overall view of engine / car health giving a known baseline where as the cobb product will make changes irrespective of any adverse conditions These chaps are not too far from you why not drop in and get an opinion from them? - they have experience of Scoobs also http://www.thegtrshop.com/

For the money of a Cobb an a flash map go for a bespoke map instead - Using something like a cobb afterwards to tweak slightly if you change things is fair enough but have something tailored specifically to your car as a baseline and the 98ron that is readily available in this country. The manufacturer maps have degrees of variance to take into consideration conditions of use, fuel quality etc. Cobb maps - like a lot of flash maps - will be fine for generic application but given the amount of money you have spent on your motor start with something bespoke for you, then tweak from there.