Jay762

STI's (Wide Bodies) have differences to the WRX. For your model look to WRX (Narrow body) and they should fit possibly with minor tweaks. I have successfully fitted WRX and STI items to my RX in some instances with no issue some need minor adjustments - eg WRX S exhaust required a different ring seal upfront due to the diameter of the RX manifold being smaller than the WRXS

I added these two wiring convertors and retained steering wheel function CTSSU001 (I see the description now is for forrester only so check with DS) & CT20SU02 https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/subaru-steering-wheel-interface-adaptors.html

Had some many years ago - quality was fine but have only bought OZ in last few years so dont know if quality has dropped

As Savage describes you dont need to pull the engine but will need to drop the gearbox, easy then to get full access to the bolts etc. Give Luke at ICP a call and he will put you right with a clutch and associated alignment tool - factor in a few quid for a release bearing as well £20 I think off top of head

It might be the camera however they tend to be a simple generic setup of 12v feed for power to the camera, a -ve ground wire and a video signal lead. I would ask your 3rd party installer why they think it will not be able to have the lines any more?

A tough one - had a quick scout around the usual couple of sources but nothing, none breaking your model at the moment. Are there any breakers local to yourself?

Given the mileage I would suggest a fuel pump change at the same time as the filter, looks like your pump is located behind a panel under your back seat - similar to impreza, shouldnt be too hard to get to and change

Welcome - It tends to be a setting on/off - Have a look through your menus

Nicely sorted by the look of it

Hi I used Motul Gear 300 75W-90 from Opie oils https://www.opieoils.co.uk/f/100400/21338/2008/axle-drive.aspx Dont forget the discount code - SUBOC

will have to check that on mine - know it has not got back to the loom itself as I have done some weeding on that but the sensors i will check

Useful post - thanks and gives a benchmark, Ill complete the same process when mine is back together as I have some additional security and electronics in place to povide a comparison

Wow great colour - dont see too many of those. The gearbox is a limiting factor as is the engine - closed deck block or not. I wont quote figures as I am not as familiar with the classics as others on the forum are ( @Tidgy@savage bulldogs ) you can get reinforcing plates for the gearbox though and cross hatching on the block will tell you if it is a CDB or not. In order to do do the map though check your ECU to see if it is standard, not ESL modified or aftermarket Alcatex etc otherwise you will not be able to map. So I would check that first before turbos, injectors, clutch and the rest. Savage has a thread going that started in the same way your post has..... Plenty of information in there, food for thought etc including an Arashi turbo unit which could be an alternative to the standard TD options?

I have a charger connected and will be fitting one of these to have an easier trickle charge setup https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOCO-GC002-X-Connect-Eyelet-Terminal/163844526401?hash=item2625e51141:g:~rIAAOSwLZddbTqQ

Pulled the dash apart on the STi to trace an unknown wire that may or may not connect to the ECU, then spent the day rerouting and tidying the installs for Toucan unit, tracker and stereo

Coming along nicely - I see you have a tube of copper slip there, after using that for years with brakes and high temps making it run everywhere and stain badly I switched to the mechanic friendly Molyslip Ferroslip product

I purchased one as an aftermarket for my impreza from Subaru, it came with 3M double sided tape and stuck directly to the bumper

fuse, relay and wire that will handle 30amps, use your original horn 12v feed to activate the relay

this is for the 4 speed auto I have - dont know if the dipstick has similar markings??

I would avoid a vent to atmosphere option as it can throw the fueling out making the running not great. I have a forge recirc option on mine - its shiney and does the job

sage advice there - stripped a few threads in my time also 😉

took delivery of some Angelwax products so got stuck in - really pleased with results, have finally managed to get a swirl free bonnet - just rest of car to do now... Before - obviously After Swirl free

Sorted the 12v fuel pump line, experience has shown cutting into bulkhead seals will let in water plus I wasn't happy with the blade fuse and electrical tape setup. Before Drilled bulkhead and sealed using a grommet then ran the line through a protective shroud to the cars fuse panel, sealed the cut with epoxy resin. Nice hole under the fuse panel for routing the lines After checking the fuse panel for blanks I decided to use the redundant air pump components, the 60amp fuse is the right size but the blades used are bigger than your standard stuff I have in the garage so used the OEM Subaru ones Lines in place Connection to battery

Quite an emotional subject / content but gets my foot a tapping

Angelwax is my brand of choice for polishes and waxes, have had ok results with Meguiars compound but the Angelwax Enigma AIO is an improvement on that. Just bought some bilt hamber clay bars to try (Made in UK) cheaper than Angelwax and Meguiars options