Jay762

Dont think I have seen an 18" space saver, 15's and 16's - but as long as it clears your brake calipers a 16 should be fine (plus right profile tyre wall to maintain a matching rolling radius)

you might be able to get a loom adapter, will any of these fit the connectors you have behind the console? https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/subaru-steering-wheel-interface-adaptors.html

Wow that looks in better shape than my 08 hatch - great platform to start 👍

615 in a fozzie - that is awesome - as Savage said, the fozzie owners on here don't tend to be doing the big hp builds. As suggested a build thread would be great, I would be interested to know more

Shame - there is a member on here who wants a 3.0 for towing his caravan, thought it might have been an opportunity

Looking good - and you know the kit works 👍

Welcome - Sales posts generally do better with photos - could you add some. Does it have a tow bar fitted?

Sounds like you need a thread of your own to keep us updated - as mentioned before its a slippery slope 😁

- just thought, I do have the later model steering rack fitted. Its very good 🙂

ok im sure some of our owners will be along to comment

Looking good - can empathise with the running in, currently bedding in a clutch - 500 miles of restraint 😄

I dont have the answer buuuuuut I did deal with Larkspeed when replacing bushes and there were a couple of curve balls in sizing that got thrown up - errors on the manufacture website, but fair play to them they phoned the different manufacturers and sourced the right sizes for me. https://www.larkspeed.com/

Wotcha and welcome - I have had no experience of the new new ones 15+ but can offer experience / opinions of the 08+ model - how late did you have in mind?

Ok so I must have listened to this video clip at least 10 times today - doesn't get old. A real credit to your efforts over the years

Wotcha and welcome - Unfortunately you are right we don't have as many Levorg owners on the forum as we would like, not sure why - maybe we could do with some targeted marketing on other social media platforms? Keep us posted for my money it would be red or silver 🙂

Clutch, flywheel, gearbox and crank seals replaced plus the separation plates. Whilst doing that turns out oil leak was from turbo so a replacement gasket was needed. Covered 200 of the 500 mile recommended bedding in distance - limiting myself to 3500 revs max, short shifting a lot.

Group N bearings arrived - Ordered direct form Japan, not quite over night but saved some money. Will get the studs pressed and replaced with ARP items

Finally managed to source some replacement centre caps - both options from Subaru did not fit - Quite pleased at that as the one option were £22 each for a piece of plastic. The wheels are Borbet alloys supplied as dealer options so I pinged Borbet directly - German company and will only ship to a German address, fortunately I am working over there and had the opportunity to get them shipped to the hotel. €6 each so a lot less than Subaru options and a proper fit. Only compromise no Subaru logo but I can live with that

That is an option however I would not discourage you from doing your own thing - It depends on how determined you are, I would def go for the turbo block though so you can build the engine whilst still driving your motor - take your time and build over time when funds allow plus talk to engine builders who have done this type of conversion wait for the right parts to come up second hand or from stalled builds to save you money I did look into it for my own NA hatch and may do something similar in the future with the left over parts I am accumulating 😉 but I will be starting with a turbo block so I have the extra fixing points etc

Is it a hatch or hawk? look to start with weight loss - rear seats etc improve your power to weight ratio Getting that power is possible but you will pay for it. Bigger valves, polished ported heads x3 angle cut, Ti springs to cope with high sustained revs, oil pump, oil cooler, uprated coolant pump, block skim, high comp pistons, uprated cams, baffled sump, FPR, uprated fuel pump, possible bigger injectors.... You are talking between 4500 - 5500. that doesnt include any bearings or crank balancing Your motor does not come with a belt guide so running the high revs you run a risk of the belt jumping. Consider: A: a dedicated track car. B starting with a 2.0 or 2.5 turbo lump and look at fitting your heads post rework. There are quite a few race classes particularly in rally that are non turbo so there are many examples out there but I dont believe they start with your lump I found my 2.0 hatch to be really softly spring, small arb's etc on a spirited country drive whilst I preferred the feel of the brakes over the larger more wooden sti ones they would fade really quickly and round corners was really wallowing. I do not think it would have lasted one session on the track - If yours is the same I would consider chassis mods alongside weight loss then the engine starting with a doner turbo lump. raise the compression ratio, lumpy cams, port and flow the head, match the manifold and header to the heads Oh keep a camera handy and start a build thread 😁

Talked about many times but always seems to be costly against buying one that is done already what seems to be more common is a turbo to non turbo conversion for tarmac / rally events

Wotcha - I think it is more than the HP when it comes to towing Torque / nm is more of a factor. Have you researched the 3.0 lump? If that is cost prohibitive maybe selling / swapping the 2.0 for a 3.0?

Awesome news 👍😁

Sounds good - keep us posted 👍

Soooo limited experience as follows: Stock 330s - soft with less feel on turn in and front comes up under acceleration WRX STI with Cusco Street Zero A's (Designed for fast road) but ARB's etc all standard. Vast improvement - set to same height from bottom thread marker the front sits slightly lower than the rear, turn in and response is vastly improved but the ride whilst firmer is not crashy - I will still replace the steering rack with a 15+ item to get the faster ratio WRX STI with Ohlins DFV, Perrin ARB's Perrin droplinks and 15+ rack - Only had limited experience it was positive but inconsistent (Turns out springs were incorrectly fitted) Still not crashy on the roads but firmer than the CUSCO's - going to be good to get them on track. From what you are saying I would recommend the CUSCO's then if still not happy look at a thicker ARB to reduce roll even more