Jay762

You should be fine with a 16inch wheel https://www.wheel-size.com/size/subaru/forester/2012/#trim-20d-eudm-145 215/65R16 96H 6.5Jx16 ET48 5x100 2.1 / 2.0 225/55R17 95H 7Jx17 ET48 5x100 2.2 / 2.1 225/50R18 96H 7Jx18 ET48 5x100 2.3 / 2.1 225/50R18 96V 7.5Jx18 ET48 5x100 2.3 / 2.1

Whilst you are working through have a look at this thread, one or two minor changes you could make along the way 😁😉

I used Larkspeed up Leeds way for most of it and ordered the whiteline stuff direct from their site as there was a discount code I could use at the time. Cannot rate Larkspeed service enough as the powerflex and superpro sites were not clear on the part numbers for my model, some bushes that arrived were for a BRZ. Larkspeed owned the issue spent the time on the phone with the suppliers and sourced the correct parts.

Super pro AU bushings https://superpro.com.au/find/superpro-suspension-parts-and-poly-bushings-for-subaru-forester-2013-on-sj-/cid-999501511 Alternate model arm options https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/09-18-forester-and-sti-front-control-arms-information-updated.792047/ Whiteline AU products https://www.whiteline.com.au/do_segue4.php?make=SUBARU&model=FORESTER&model_final=2013-2018&vehicle=FORESTER+SJ

Hi it depends how you want to approach it. Option1 replace the bushes only Parts cost - New bushes only This means you have the labour to remove the arms Labour to remove and replace bushes (needs a press and possible torch to burn out the bush) Labour to replace the control arms Tracking setup Cost is less in parts but more in labour Option2 replace the control arms which include new bushes Parts cost - Control arms which include new bushes Labour to remove arms Labour to refit new arms Tracking setup Cost is more in parts but less in labour. I would look at Option2 as more garages can do this as it requires less tools so gives you variable labour rates to choose from then take it to a decent place to get your geometry setup I know this is a UK site but gives you an idea of cost for an arm https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=14424&cat=96&sub=3663&sec=0&var=0&dc=&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart= Option3 source control arms with bushes and do it yourself on your driveway then take it to get a decent GEO setup

After my AFlux experience I spent some time on the phone with different companies that would cover the modifications. A lot of people rave about Keith Micheals, I was really not impressed the call was largely about me answering questions on the rival insurance competition not my motor or policy requirements. In the end they came in with a quote that was £4 under A Flux. A much more appropriate call was with SKY, spent 85% of time discussing the car and policy requirements then they came back with a quote that was £100 less than Flux and Micheals for equivalent cover. As a consequence I now have x3 policies with them, all mods declared and covered under the terms and conditions

A point of note with Admiral, they want to know if you have been on a speed awareness course thing not all insurers are concerned with these but Admiral are so be aware

As above

Having two sets of insurance on one car is illegal and the problem you have with it is if there is an accident the insurance machine struggles to know which policy to make a claim against - Its not that intelligent, more like a very basic software loop that gets stuck very easily. My own experience with Flux was not great from the outset so after an initial 12 months with them I wont ever be returning. The issue is they are in a quite a unique position very similar but not quite the same as the TV tax - You have to pay it every month or year by law with actually no guarantees of a service or product at the end of it. You have up to two years before you lose your NCB - Something that is not widely shared but that is at risk of "Computer says no" so I wouldn't chance it more than a few months Best solution is what Tidgy suggested, get yourself a motor - many on Gumtree etc for 200-400 and sorn it. The motor will not depreciate any more so you would get your money back or part ex it in with a dealer for your next motor

Hi - they are less desirable unfortunately dependant on mileage and condition between 1800 and 4k for a mint low mileage

Torque GT have some nice kit going through their doors - been watching their site for years

@savage bulldogs has just replaced an Apexi unit so may be able to help

Wotcha and welcome - looks like someone has already put some money into your motor - any further plans?

Hi - photos and a ballpark price usually help, you say the trade in option was dissappointing so you must have an idea - One persons reasonable / sensible is another persons astronomical

https://fenderist.com/fsg010en

I would do the belt and the pump at the same time purely because of the accessibility. For your motor I would keep it OEM, the higher flow, enclosed cast impeller I would only consider if you are running at higher revs a lot as the design is supposed to stop cavitation

Wotcha and welcome - first change I always make is a set of PIAA windscreen wipers, extra visibility in the rain

Visited TDR in Warwick to check the fueling after replacing the VF34 for the standard VF48. Nice safe results s# mode 348BHP (288 WHP) tickover was raised from 620 to 740, has smoothed out the idle nicely not quite as loud on the startup

08 STI standard internals, ARP bolts, Cosworth HG, Cylinder 4 cooling mod, Cosworth panel filter, standard UEL headers, HKS uppipe, Cobra full stainless turbo back system, standard VF48, standard fuel system, 3 port boost solenoid Area 52 made a decent job of the first map and TDR only had to do some minor tweaks for the different turbo.

Hi - I love the Subaru brand but from the experience shared on this forum, they do not do a good diesel product.

Well at least he has responded now and as you say, either way you get closure

I used Whiteline, Powerflex and Super Pro but the strongflex option will sort you out no problem

If you don't bleed the fronts first you run the risk of trying to bleed a bubble from front to rear which uses more fluid and is fine if you are doing a flush but for taht reason I always do fronts first

The abs ring is integral to the bearing so no way that could be fitted incorrectly - Def right bearing I am assuming? The abs sensor can be fitted only one way and the plug is quite robust so you couldn't have disconnected it unintentionally. ARB sensor is on other side of car soooooo I dont think there is anything else to look at

If I can get them the right size Michelins cross climate but have recently experienced Continental All season and am equally impressed, although they were only dealing with 100bhp