Tidgy

http://asperformance.com/ isn't a million miles from newcastle, I'm not sure if they do general service work, but well worth a call to find out or get a recommended local place, Alyns a decent guy

never heard of them tbh

welcome

know the name of the place?

hmm, you know how you can get bhp gauges on some cars? i wonder if you can get a bdp gauge?

lol you guys. as above oil temp, oil pressure and boost pressure.

depends how far you wanna go. Basic drop in piston, head studs and gaskets is about £2000+vat, Fully forged ready for 450bhp is about £3500+vat. Cost once failed depends on damage, which could basically mean a whole new engine and prob double the price.

have you got a specialist to check it out and put it on a dyno for you yet?

It's pot luck whether they go or not. mapped, unmapped, moded, unmoded etc etc. Options are sell it, live with it and worry about it if you need to or pay to have engine sorted now. They don't all fail though, it's just a higher rate of failure than other cars.

welcome. get some pics up, has it had much done to it?

ah i get ya, what sort of budget you looking at?

Sc36, md321 (not sure which version you need for that power). SC36 will pap all over all of those turbos mentioned for spool and peak but wont bea cheap because you will prob have to buy new as second hand ones are rare as hens teeth

Welcome. wouldn't a spec c be a better start?

hahaha

doh! bad news. Better news for me, parts I have been waiting for for two weeks have finaly landed in the UK and at the supplier, only hicup is he has 15 pallets to go through to find em before he can send them to clinic. Hopefully means week tomorrow i'll get the car back :) Assuming, touch wood (pats head), the weather holds off, dont think mapping a hopefully 400bhp type R is a good idea in snow and Ice, even if it is only a road test after dyno map lol

Welcome. get some pics up :)

what a 'proper' job that was,,,,, proper bodge it and scarper job hahaha

recommended by specialists/tuners, oils one of those things that has a massive influence on an engine and isn't mega expensive to change. Even subaru UK admit the tuners know more than them lol

As above, varying load and not sat at same revs on motorway etc, also use engine braking to help bed the rings in, find a nice long hill and just let it coast down the hill is good for that. As far as going from nothing at 1000 to all, no problem with it. by that time the rings will be bedded in and seals will be seated fine. Both my engine builds have had the same treatment, scoobyclinic have builds hundreds if not thousands of engines and always used the same method :) Can't map the car properly without taking it to full bost repeatedly

50 seconds sounds a long time, mine lasts about 5-10 seconds in position 2 before turning key to ignition

I'd say leave it another 500 miles nd then oil change at 1000 then let her rip. (advise running in on a fresh rebuilt (so new engine) is 500miles on crap mineral oil and no boost (waste gate pressure), then 500 on semi synthetic (again at waste gate pressure), then at 1000 fully synthetic and full boost.

welcome

no bother, never easy when you don't know how to take written stuff is it, i'm the same from time to time.

It may be the setup is different over there, but if it increase the cooling effectiveness aka larger cooler then it will help.

haha thought you'd like that :D