Tidgy

For a 2.5 rebuild you want to be doing the whole thing, inc bottom end. I see some really bad advice about not needing to do it etc etc, but bearing damamage is very commonly found once stripped and if not done you'll just be back to square one when they fail. (Mate had to take a very well known tuner to court over this after they gave him bad advice not to do it, he won and they paid for rebuild at a different tuner) £3400 labour could be (just guessing at per hour cost) £75 X45hrs, to rebuild properly including heads, bottom end etc is perhaps a tad high, but not huge amounts. If somewhere is building it 10 hours i would be worried they are rushing it, not checking tollerances etc. Any company that says they can price it before its stripped is telling you porkies, unless they charge you new for everything, Yes they an give you a rough guess, but untill the stripped parts are assessed there is no way to tell how bad the damage is, worst case the whole thing could be junk. The engine in my type R was total junk except the headcastings and the pistons, rest inc the block were toast. The next thing is how far your gonna go with the build as far as spec goes. What are yoru future plans? First off there is no point in reusing the standard pistons as they are crap and have a nasty habbit of breaking the ring lands off. So minimum spec i'd recomend, Forged pistons Decent Rods ARP headstuds ACL bearings Decent headgaskets After that its then a case of how far you want to go? Closed decking, uprated valve's and springs, cams etc etc are all options and just budget dependant. You need to make sure the over all spec is matched properly, spec things incorrectly and they just dont work and the result will be a car that drives crap, could be laggy, doesnt make power etc etc The final note i would say, is get all the work done by the same place, rebuild, sourcing of the machine work, mapping etc. Any problems you just go back to them and it's their problem. If you get it built by one place, mapped by another then you can end up in a situation where if something goes wrong they blame each other and you end up paying for a second rebuild.

we tried to keep my wifes bug on the road and dropped more money than i care to total up into repairs, but it was just one thing after another 😞 finaly bought the bullet and got her a hawk wrx lol if you are thinking of getting another one then can always looking at buying before you sell your current one and swapping off the parts like wheels you wanna keep.

How far you planning on taking the track car? If your thinking of all the way then cheapest decent shell you can find will be best starting point. Also need to find somewhere with experience to build and spec it. Weekend car id look for a tidy type r

It's a catch 22, highly likley it will come back, also if its at the stage of reducing the rear seatbelt strength then it's going to be very far gone. Although i;d be interested to know how they came up with that, Yes it is a considerable amount of work depending on how far gone they are your talking £500+ as a minimum, then when they remove stuff to find the extent of the damage they may find it's worse than they thought. Also if the sills are that bad i expect the arches will be not far behind them which will be £500+ a side to get them done properly and again will depend on how far they have gone. on a car of that year (unless its a special edition like an impreza type R/RA) then its pretty much terminal as a foregone conclusion when you come to cost vs a replacement im afraid, prob not what you wanted to hear 😞.

No she loved it, her new one doesnt have it though lol

my wife calls hill start 'butt wiggle' pmsl only slightly relevant to the thread but i thought why not lol

Just a note that if you want more raw performance then you want a type r over a P1.

did it run with no cloolant long?

unless they mean widetrack version which has rear arch lips. which basicly means 05 blob on

i thought they left the system after 5 tbh, but try keith micheals insurance, need to speak to gary moulson there, he can be a pain to get hold of as he's always mega busy.

Theres a guy in facebook that seems to have a very good rep and not heard of any horror storys. Not used him personaly though, although need to get the wife a spare so may well be soon, https://www.facebook.com/jdmsubarukeys

Sounds indeed like might be headgasket. Doesnt always burn oil, depends which part of the gaskets gone. I suggest you get it to a specialist and get them to take a look.

haha, so many people come back very quickly 😄 welcome back 😄

They dont, they just get em mapped on normal fuel im afraid. Mate is from over your way and he hates he can onl.y get crap fuel

Could well be an airlock then.

Depens ont he wheel offset i believe

So picked it up, pretty pleased with it. I'll get some pics up when i can but its back to being ditched again as we'ev had aloiut of rain and its washed all sorts of muds and such off the hills. Also had a slight disaster in the way home. Car shuddered and spat all sorts of stuff out the exhaust, so looks like i have given it a decat back box lol Gonna pop it back up to see whats going on, It's got a full H+S exhaust system that i believe has a lifetime warrenty, but shall have to find out. If not shall have to get the back box swapped or maybe just see if i can get the rest of the stuff taken out.

Vilvoord is Belgium, so parallel import. Assuming its right hand drive?

Looks great, front end of these look proper mean haha

Looks great, really like the foresters

Give them a bell. Bit I suspect they will be right. The 4 pots are the same across the range pretty much.

Very few of them around. Try scoobyclinic as I know they cam get exhausts for the sti.

Get to back to them and go from there. Was it a subaru specialist that built it?

Moved it for you so no biggy 😄

Go buy a cheap !Removed! and park it plus sorn it.