Tidgy

welcome, a scoob is a scoob, turbo or not turbo 😄

Update coming soon after a bit more fettling 😄

welcome

no idea about valve springs im afraid, i know mine had supertech valve kit in it, but not sure on the specifics im afraid.

tbh i;ve never heard of anyone swapping 2.5 cams in over here, not that that means it hasnt been done of course.

will very much depend on whats due at that service.

WHP is US figures and is somewhat , well very, over egged compared to ours. 450 horse power at the wheels would put the figure around 560bhp at the fly wheel over here, which isn't possible on the turbos they claim do the figures etc. My advice, don't use nasioc for tuning info, they have a very strange way of doing things at times and massively over egg results. So, that said, what are your actual goals? a well setup 300bhp car will walk all over a 500bhp badly setup car and be alot more fun even with the lower power. what shell are you using do to it? how extreme are you actualy going to go? full bare shell with cage, or still in road trim? What block are you going to use? is it worth getting a closed deck block? Road and race use are very very different animals, as well are multi lap race vs time attack.

no i odnt mean forged, i mean as in replaced the crank bearings? they often take damage when the HG goes.

did you get the bottom end done?

Fair do's, was worth a shot anyway. Mine needed a new pump not long back as it was whining even with proper fluid level

The system is a proper !Removed! to bleed, top it yp again and seeing that sorts it.

as above, unless your parking it for weeks at a time you shouldnt have any battery charge issues unless there is a fault somewhere

cheers 🙂

temporary its a proper annoyance, but it does sort itself out, eventually,,,,

If your serious about selling it i dont think you'll get anywhere near that.

Ah bummer 😞 although I'm not surprised

Anoyingly they are always cheaper direct.

cheers 😄

once the damage is done, its done

i would always have it mapped after an engine build, bear in mind your changing the whole internal airflow of the engine, the bores will be slighlty enlarged due to material removal during honing etc etc not to mention you wouldn;t want to be runnign the map from a duff engine on a nice new one

not always, check engine light is as reliable as the 2.5 hahaha

welcome, no matter what you do you wont get much more power out of it unless it's a turbo model, so if you want to mod then looks is about your only option 🙂

thread fail, no pics,,,, hahaha get some pics up lad

never good news 😞 It depends on what you want really, if your sure your not going over 350 then replace with stock and reuse what you can (bear in mind they need to strip it to see exactly whats gone wrong and what damage there is, sounds like heads will need a refresh). If your maybe thinking about upping the power at some point then may as well do the rods and pistons while its apart as it saves doing them later. should be good for mid 400's at that point. The best bet is have a chat with Kev and see what spec he advises, they have built and tuned hundreds of them over the yeas so know whats worth doing and whats not to achieve reliability at certain power levels.

welcome mainly dress up stuff by the looks of it, header tank, pipes changed (blue ones), chrome battery cover, chrome fuse box cover, oil filler cap, belt cover, carbon dipped air feed and some of the chrome covered bits, dump valve and strut brace.