Tidgy

spec c didnt have anything special, it's just a normal bumper with a lip spoiler.

As sugest it clean it up and see whats going on, ps pumps are near on £500 just for the part 😮

you called,,,, haha wrx wont be a widetrack, and widetrack didnt come in till 2005, i think you need a new mechanic.

Different companies will vary massively, try gary at keith michaels. Also make sure you disclose any and all the mods

You wanna get a leak down test done rather than a comp test.

Sounds like you need to get it to a specialist and get them to go through it/dyno it and find exactly whats going on

just as a side note, pretty ts not a spec d, its an sti limited, 1 of 25 cars.

Def sounds like a duff sensor. has it got the right oil in it? if the oil is thinning out as it heats up may be could possibly throw strange codes.

first off the car is about 30% higher in price to buy so you'd expect some increase in running costs, Also its considerable larger car itself from what i can tell. But that said i wouldn't say they are sky high. It tends to be the sportier models of subaru's that are more expensive to run and sounds like a lack of knowledge about them.

yeah, although he seems to do less and less nowadays.

Andy Forrest wont be able to check the BHP as he doesn't have a dyno, bear in mind they are only estimated figures anyway. as far as mods go there's a pretty long list and any subaru specialist will be able to get parts for them.

they use 60% of its value, so that will get written off. They just value it based on book value, not retail, which is a bit crap. With the floor buckled i'ts not gonna be a cheap fix to do it properly. i'd be tempted to just strip it, but personaly i wouln't put it back ont he road, just not wirth the cost. as far as getting the car back, if its a 3d party, aka not your insurance, paying out then the car still belongs to you to do as you please.

Engine tuner is prob the closest to you

getting there, bet you cant wait 😄

Unless im mistaken the dyno is in the wrong mode, Should be in shoot_44, also looks like the gear ratio is set different to my old wrx. 'Shoot_44 Four cylinder 4WD passenger cars eg Subaru WRX' '3.536' Im not sure what 'shoot_AF' actually is. Do you know what gear it was in when they ran it?

Sounds like you have a boost leak that only opens up under load. Should just be a case of running through the system to find it.

haha, fingers crossed it turns out to be somethign minor

check its not blown the oil feed off the trubo or somethign daft, but i suspect the damage might be done 😞

could be a whole load of issues from overgeating the oil, to oil starvation when going round bends with high force, oil pump failure. if the oil has been dumped out you may have a hole in the block which coudl be cuased by the oil thinning out and metal on metal. Sounds like the oil temp may be the issue, asssuming you dont have a oil temp gauge?

As savage says, but what i can tell you is when the engines are stripped, experiance of dealing with dozens if not hundreds of 2.5 failures, finds the bearings are often found to be pinched and deformed, hence the rapid failure after.

has the engine been stripped and inspected or just diagnosed assemebled/running?

Short version is the crank bearings are often found to have been damaged. I know a few folks who have been told that is bad advice and not needed only to have had bottom end failures within 1000 miles of having just the headgasket done. One of which ended up becoming very nasty and going to court, which they won i should add, but the costs were pretty big for that As far as 2.0, they seem to be less suseptable to crank bearing damage when headgasket fails, how ever given the milage most of them are at now its pretty much a no brainer to refresh the bottom end while the heads are off

Just as a slight side note, FFS, LC and AL is prop not a great idea on the stock 2.5 as they are pretty fragile at best.

First off is it a 2.5 or a 2.0? also what mileage is it at? Full cost of rebuild wont be know till its stripped an assessed to see what damage has been done. 2.5 will be a full crank up rebuild when the headgasket goes and i would question the knowledge of anyone who says different. 2.0 will be very dependant on mileage and whats found, however given the 2.0 finished in 2005 engine will be at least 14 years old so i would expect a refresh of the crank bearings will be a good idea while it's apart. Build spec depends on what your plans are and how far you want to go.

Get it mapped properly, Cobb stuff is just flash maps and experience in the uk shows that is very bad.