Jay762
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Everything posted by Jay762
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Think you offset may be 55 https://www.wheel-size.com/size/subaru/impreza/2006/ which would have your wheel stick out 21mm - that should fill out your arches nicely 👍
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That should be fine (assuming no lowering etc) - sticking out extra 18mm https://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator#
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It might be the unequal vs equal length manifold. around 2006 2007 Subaru went to an equal length manifold (the bug definitely has an unequal length fitted), not too sure but I wonder if this also coincided with going from 2.0l to 2.5l - it may be that giving the more distinctive rumble you are looking for??
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Lovely motor good luck with the sale - Do you have a guide price??
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Dependant on mileage, potholes you could be looking at bushes (not a huge issue) suspension struts and or front suspension bearings (top hats). Have a look under the sound proofing blanket on the bonnet (if there), mine held the condensation and being wet all the bolts holding the scoop on had rusted - dont want this starting on your bonnet. On the whole though mine was reliable, just replaced tyres and brake pads 😉
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Bargain for someone 👍
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Its a bit extreme but you could remove all the sound deadening material but that means taking your interior apart, seats, carpet out etc. That will make the cabin noisier - that authentic race rally feel?
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as above 296 - the prodrive package (and 330s models) were running 326/8 bhp
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couple of other things I have read contributing to ringland failure loading the engine too much - full throttle from low revs oil starvation through sustained high revs and / or cornering The factory tune on standard WRX STI's running circa 296BHP running lean took some blame - particularly on No.4 cylinder - the Prodrive and 330s tune (circa 326bhp) was supposed to have addressed this in the reflash however failures still occurred - one of our short-lived members on here was reporting symptoms on his Cosworth CS400. I dont have any issues but did have a bespoke map lined up to remove the risk of lean running
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This is the link to the new block Savage is referring to. https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=9596&cat=96&sub=183&sec=0&var=0&dc=&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart= The engine rebuilds are similar, irrespective of bore a used block will need decking, bore check hone then assembly. You could take a 2.0 out to a 2.3l using appropriate components and a bore there is a chap (Dave Millward) breaking a wrx on facebook but the engine has developed a knock (based in Oxford UK) - I can see if he has a price for this??
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There is someone breaking a blob and a hawk on FB.... type in breaking wrx
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Some bonkers motors there!!
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no I meant H4 bulb type 😋, but you will be able to tell very quickly by looking at connector at back of light - If I remember rightly H4 bulbs have a horizontal connection so pull straight off towards engine but the HID's have a 90º facing down But the additional ballast gubbins is also a big give away
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Isnt it a H4?
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No dont mix blue and red coolants some info on coolant types... Most antifreeze and coolant products on the market are ethylene glycol based with additives to prevent corrosion, lubricate seals and water pumps and aid in heat transfer to the coolant from the metal of the engine. Antifreeze coolant should typically be mixed with water at the ratio of one part antifreeze to one part water. This gives antifreeze protection down to minus 34 degrees and overheating / boil over protection up to 265 degrees. Do not use pure antifreeze in a cooling system without using at least 30 percent water in the mixture. Most antifreeze coolant sold in recent years has been the traditional green coolant which has a life span of two to three years or up to 30,000 miles. Green antifreeze contains silicates, phosphates and borates as corrosion inhibitors to keep the solution alkaline. As long as the solution remains alkaline, corrosion is controlled and the cooling system is protected. Over time corrosion inhibitors are depleted and the corrosion protection is lost, therefore green antifreeze should be changed every two years. Aluminium is especially vulnerable to corrosion and many vehicles have heads, radiators and other aluminium components in the cooling system. If the coolant in an engine cooling system is changed before corrosion inhibitors reach dangerously low levels, corrosion damage is prevented. Long Life Antifreeze An alternative to tradition green antifreeze is a product currently used by many vehicle manufacturers. Orange or Red antifreeze known as long life or extended life antifreeze increases the useful life of engine coolant. Long life antifreeze is also ethylene glycol based. The difference between the two colours is that Orange / Red antifreeze contains a different type of corrosion inhibitor that has a much longer life than silicates, phosphates and borates. Orange / Red antifreeze contains organic acids that protect engine parts from corrosion. Green antifreeze does not mix with long life antifreeze. Never mix the two colours in a cooling system. The organic acids in orange types will cause precipitation of silicates in the green type and corrosion protection is greatly reduced. Orange type antifreezes are suitable for up to five years or 100,000 miles. They can also be used in many older vehicles if all of the green antifreeze is flushed from the system and is replaced with the orange / red antifreeze. The lifespan of long life antifreeze is about four years or 60,000 miles in older cars. The level of protection of the coolant has little relevance to the corrosion protection. An antifreeze tester may show adequate frost protection but cannot test for corrosion protection which is depleted over time. Change your coolant mix on a schedule based on the colour of the antifreeze you are using. Severe corrosion to engine and cooling system components can occur with resulting expensive repairs. Source http://www.bluecol.co.uk/index.cfm?page=75
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ohhhh like christmas has come early - missed this update, do love seeing refreshed engine rebuilds 😍
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ahhh possibly the old dpf clean
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after recently resetting my ECU the auto trans is a lot smoother and the idle revs are lower - may want to try that as an easy first option, something tat can be done at home with a laptop and cable?
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Well great to hear you are helping until someone else can represent the XV's 👍 What have you got as a replacement??
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Millers is good stuff - I tend too go on the certification on the back as well JASO etc
