Jay762

Try fitting unequal length headers first that should give you the lumpy idle etc, failing that try a prodrive back box, had one on my hatch as a dealer PPP upgrade (pre 330s) quad pipe but not too much increase in volume

dusted me with a christmas tree in the back - legend

If you specify the boost limits the fuel will be regulated accordingly as the amount of air being forced into the chambers will be increasing. You will have the sensor in the exhaust as one input the MAF monitoring air flow in the MAP measuring your manifold pressure which inputting to the ECU map will result in the fuel being metered accordingly - as you dont want it running lean under higher boost situations extra fuel will be pumped in. If (cant remember the member who measured the boost, possibly Sccoby Pete / Salsa or Sandals) the i mode only runs 0.5bar and if no fuel compensation is made against a 1.5bar possible the car would run very rich. So at 0.5bar the air fuel ratio will still be driven to 15.1 (Lambda 1) by the 3 sensors but will not be as dense going into the chambers giving power release of X. At 1.5bar (S#) the air fuel ratio will still be maintained by the ECU adding more fuel as it senses a drop but due to the pressure in the manifold the mixture is denser giving a bigger bang of Z. So whilst your throttle position does not change whilst switching modes the revs will increase because you are forcing a denser mixture into each chamber causing revs to rise and a subsequent greater increase in power generated for smaller throttle movement - hence the throttle response feels 'crisper' or 'sharper'. Why not get a turbo boost gauge fitted and see? I know my Hatch STI was a few years older but you could definitely tell all 329 horses were in play during S# mode. Have you tried minimising of taking off the traction control as well as that can interfere?

I am running H&R ones - 5x100 and a great fit but only do 20mm & 25mm http://www.larkspeed.com/category/view/HRTRAKSUB Ps those are priced per pair - a mistake I made and felt only slightly foolish about

might not be a bad idea

Would the throttle response and instant boost not be associated with increased boost parameters and related increase in fuelling within the different modes? As long as the oil is of the correct standards JASO etc as well as spec (I believe Castrol edge is) I would be fine with it

not had that myself with 08 models - pull the wheel off and dash cowl - easy job and check all the tabs

The JDM aftermarket option puts them there as well - must admit I would be happy loosing the vents but hadn't thought about the single DIN idea and thin vent option the Blitz guage option for £300! https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/33804

yummy!!

Wotcha and welcome - keep us posted with progress

Sounds like a plan

Its a slippery slope - but hell of a slide

Some people just shouldn't be allowed to buy certain motors

Sounds like you could have some crud built up. Cant remember who does them on here as a refurb / exchange basis....?

With a 97 wrx you can get the sports pack option with ESL which gives antilag + LC. Getting the extra chip installed costs about £30 for ESL to mod your existing ECU by soldering on the additional board so you either send your own or source a second standard ECU and send them that keeping your own on the road whilst you await the turnaround. I dont know of ECU's from other Subarus that would fit as a straight plug and play - as I understand it the 00/96 differs to 97/98 and they differ to 99/00 - all differ to newage But the one point I would make is going aftermarket gives you flexibility so factor in some time with someone who can setup the ECU specifically for your car, either on the road or book a dyno session. Whilst at the ESL course the concept of the ECU 'learning' and adjusting based on wideband inputs like on newer ECU's was discussed but it is not a function currently in place so plugging in someone elses which has been set to their car means it would potentially need adjusting to suit your motor

top job - looks great!!

cannot remember - did you do a full refurb or just free the piston before?

Nice result that - little bit of patience and saved some $$$

Sounds like a fair old life there - and carried a donor card as well

Got you - well there could be some build up in them then - easy to drain out but a ball ache you dont need on such new motor

Yay - positive result and useful info for other members

As you have the STI all I have found are lowering options for 20mm lowering - compared to the WRX options which say 30mm - the STI must be lower as standard than the WRX. I have H&R spacers on my motor - great quality product. Why not go for a set of springs as a short term thing then that way it will be a compromise to get the looks whilst researching some coilover options which will get the car as low as you want with the flexibility of damping adjustment but will obviously cost quite a bit more. Or I have found this Koni / Eibach solution https://www.dcperformance.co.uk/uprated/koni-sport-front-dampers/subaru/impreza.html https://www.dcperformance.co.uk/uprated/eibach-pro-kit-springs/subaru/impreza.html comes in at about £900 sheets though

Just had a read of this thread. Driving with the excessive amount of oil in the sump and the flat configuration I would say there is a very good chance you have been throwing oil into the breather system - this in turn going through your chambers is going to impact the power of the combustion as well as coat your dpf. It might be worth having a look down your intake manifold. Excuse my ignorance cannot remember if the XV is NA or turbo but if so disconnecting some of the lower sitting intercooler hoses may result in draining oil out as well?

looking on the positive it is not the rear window element that is faulty so you have a loose connection somewhere

check any fuses, I would guess the light is associated to the signal voltage from the switch that would operate a relay controlling current through higher rated cable - in the same way your high beam and high current aftermarket horns work. I would disconnect the supply lead under the seat and see if there is voltage there - If so it points towards a break in the seats heater circuit / element. If not work on fuses / relays