Jay762
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Everything posted by Jay762
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oooh what bike do you ride - got an old FZR1000 myself
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Result!!
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nothing that looks like a SARD piece of kit there I can see. Wrt the exhaust, you could do a 2.5 from the turbo and have it connect up no problem or go for a 3" and get a link pipe to join the two parts http://scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=24_156&products_id=2056
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Purchased a Tactrix 2.0 ODB interface
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For the time you would spend cleaning it and the cost of a Cosworth filter I would replace it - actually thinking about not sure you can clean the Cossie ones. The FPR does not look like a SARD - however have you got a higher shot of your bay as it may somewhere else (unlikely though as it would stand out)
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here it is http://jm-imports.co.uk/index.php/2006-subaru-impreza-wrx-sti-6-speed-manual/
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The steering rack on the JDM model is an improvement over UK however equal length headers mean less of a distinctive rumble - not the end of the world but both models will be very usable every day motors
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wow - schoolboy error there
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@Seminole81 as an experienced Honda aficionado would you care to comment??
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Wotcha and welcome - like any performance motor, look after it with regular servicing, warm up an cool down cycles etc and it will be reliable. Your budget will get you a variety of motors, widetrack blobeye sti, nice hawk STI, a sharkeye STI hatch (not quite as focussed a drive as standard but with a different steering rack and some chassis tweaks it sorts it right out) or a very tidy classic - this is a very focussed tool I suggest you take a drive in each and see which suits your driving style. Buyers guide - what to look for
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Wotcha and welcome - yes they do what they do rather well dont they
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I think this is the original wheel size for your motor 15" (diameter of wheel) x6.0"J (width of wheel) offset et55 (offset of wheel centre from hub) PCD 100 (distance between the wheel studs / holes) here is a link to show you impact on look / setup of different wheels. http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator
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I can see why I got all trembly looking at all those shiny bits
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nice one I stuck a post on the facebook page also - it may need a mod approval - not sure a bit clueless when it comes to all this myfaceparty malarky
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yup the dodo juice product is good also
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A VTA dump valve can make your car run rich as everytime it vents the air to atmosphere to stop back pressure etc. a recirc keeps the air in the system keeping your mixture closer to 1 lambda. Is this a bad thing - not necessarily, does it make more noise - yes choice is yours - or ditch any valve and have some turbo flutter instead - not great for your turbo in the long run but sounds authentically rally
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Are you a member of that forum - if not ill see if I can post it
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result!!!
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using the calculator you can see the 8.5 gives you 17mm further out, which might be ok, fill the arches a little more the 9 gives you 30mm which will def be outside your arches but depends on the look you are going for
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Wotcha and welcome - great colour
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That is a great start up kit but as @Hudson described - you are missing a clay bar, if this is the first time going for it I would suggest the Meguires clay bar kit, comes with bar and spray, works very well x2 bucket approach works for me particularly as the rear arches hold a huge amount of crud
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here you go - this keeps me occupied for hours Think your existing wheel is this - but check 18x8.5j et55 P.C.D 114.3 http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator
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With how light your car is - 350 to 400 will be enough for what you describe you can use newage parts and not kill your bank account. If you intend doing a track day, even with you current set up, ensure you have at least a sump baffle in place to stop any oil starvation under hard cornering http://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/store/product/21-rcm-oil-sump-pan-baffle-plate http://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/store/product/32-rcm-group-n-baffled-oil-sump-pan
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Wotcha and welcome!!
