Tidgy

well its a risk if you don't so we'll just to agree to disagree :)

mate of mine was advised by a highly regarded tuner bottom end didnt need doing, less than 1000 miles after the build (not even run in), guess what, bottom end let go. He had to go as far as court to get his money back, which he did.

you've been lucky with that gamble, question is though, if one did fail would you charge for the second build?

Ah k not to worry then, wasn't sure if you;d gone syvecs or not yet, the iphone/android app is free direct from syvecs for that. just need the bluetooth module

your still on the stock ecu arn't you?

my dad didn't want to get force to run 99 so had it mapped for 95, dropped from 330 to 300 so about 10% drop. However even being mapped it did eventually drop a valve.

this a double post? My type R was speced for 550, 2.5 closed deck converted block mahle pistons manley rods v5 sti heads with super tech valve kit ARP headstuds ACL race bearings syvecs ecu and a huge list of ancillary and supporting mods

might drop a bit with the fuel, think dads dropped from 330 to 300 going from 99 to 95.

anything more than 350 and your gonna be into rebuild territory and then its just a case of how much do you want to spend.

will be at the limit of the turbo so 340 ish

i think someone edited my post rather than quoted it hahahahaha If your still worried take it elsewhere for a second opinion

Problem you have is it sounds like its the physical system that's a problem and while the CEL can be mapped out, you will still have a mechanical valve that could be in the wrong position.

Is it still under warrenty? Yes the drive train is under warranty until end of 2018, I’d probably buy a warranty after that to be fair. XVs come with a 3yr unlimited warranty and then another 2yrs drive train warranty.

Just read this, but sounds exactly like what my type r was doing when it spat the crank, about 2k had a slight rattle, well would have done had it not been stripped and found the bearings were shot. anything like this?

1. you may want to look at a full race spec decat, there fairly quiet when just tootling around, have a nice bark when you give it right foot, yet not restrictive on performance. 2. you don't need any external boost control, that's what the ECU is for ;) If you want to up the boost then remap it or your asking for an engine build bill. 3. second hand turbo's arn't big money and are typicly bolt on and work, if the turbo's not right for the engine it wont work and be laggy (although could work very well, untill you fit it and have it mapped you wont know either way). New turbo means full remap or your asking for trouble and engine build bill.

make sure it fits flush correctly

always better just to confirm mate, dont want a nasty surprise ;)

should still start the car even without the remote :S

need to fond out exactly what the clutch is rated too, that looks pretty much like stock power levels rated.

There's a car event over my way 1 sunday a month, pretty popular still, it's called MFN. i dont tend to go myself but theres a good turn out of all sorts of cars.

Prob find its a tad far for most of us (were pretty well spread over the uk). might be worth keeping an eye out for a rolling road day and heading to that.

Does the key still allow the car to start? if so the key/fob may be fine and you just need to re-code it to the car (they do occasionally have a flip out and lose the coding), had it with the spare key for mine. Let me know if you need to coding info

got a link? is that fitted price or just supply?

Don't bother, unless i knew exactly who it was selling and how they treated their car i'd never buy a second hand clutch and flywheel.

how much is it actualy using?