savage bulldogs

The individual coil packs are a better to give a stronger spark ,hence why subaru went back to using that method later on in the impreza range. It's just the classic individual coil packs are old tech (23yrs old) and don't perform as well as the newage coil packs . So in my opinion if you wanted to upgrade your coil packs I'd look into a newage coil pack conversion. It cost me £ 80 for some second hand newage coil packs with pigtails and about 2 hrs with a soldering iron [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If you can find a 6 speed with the ratio as your current 5 speed, you can do the conversion with .... 6 speed box , cradle, prop, gearstick and linkage . As you can use the 5 speed clutch ,fly,slave and drive shafts . Although fitted the 6 speed clutch ,fly and starter motor when doing my conversion .As the 6 speed fly and clutch is slightly bigger in diameter and therfore handles a bit more power . I was lucky enough to find a 6 speed conversion kit (clutch included )for just under £1,500 [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Cos the oil pick up is on the passenger side . left hand corners can cause oil starvation (not enough oil in that side of the sump) Right hand corners can cause oil surge (oil is forced into the pick up as it sloshes to that side of the sump ) Did you find excessive oil in the tmic ghost ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Classic imprezas (92 to 00 ) use these in quite a few places . Arch liners. Front bumpers. Rear bumpers. Boot trim . And interior trim . They do use other different sized and shaped clips in those areas as well as the ones in your pic . Just thought I'd mention that as you wouldn't be able to brand them as a set of "complete" fixings for those areas [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sounds like possibly a air intake or boost leak . As either 1 of those would give a "hissing" sound and lack of power . Try checking for any loose pipe clips or cracks in the pipework from the maf (just after the air filter) to turbo intake . Then from turbo outlet (under the top mount intercooler ) to throttle body. Also check any of the small bore vacuum pipes for cracks as these can also leak boost and are prone to perishing . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Imo a man that never made a mistake probably never "made" anything. I'm always looking to try something different ,which means that some things work and stay "as is" but it also means that somethings get removed or tweeked to try something better . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

James that blue bit on yours is a fpr bypass that you have to fit when installing a aftermarket fpr . My current inlet is a reversed intake with extra vac ports and I've binned most of the oe vac line system . Unfortunately when I removed the oe v1 vac line system I didn't really pay much attention, as I knew I wasn't refitting it . The fpr vac line keeps the fuel pressure correct , so I wouldn't want anything else drawing from the same line . Just incase it alters the fuel pressure . Ideally we need someone who has a relatively standard v1 .Or if you can trace the other vac lines back and tell me where they go/post a pic . I should be able to help identify which lines would be ok to "t" together. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I can't remember exactly where it goes and my current vac line system is far from standard (so I can't pop the bonnet and check) as long as its connected directly to the inlet manifold ( not "t'd" in to another line) it will work fine . V1 refers to the the year of turbo inlet manifold shape the car uses and ran from 92 to 94😉 Here's a pic of my v3 (97) inlet manifold which runs a slightly different inlet manifold but shows the fpr and vac line. Maybe someone with a more standard v1 could pop their bonnet and check for you ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Tbh I probably enjoy moding more when I've got to make something fit rather than just bolting something on [emoji15] But I do like a challenge [emoji4] I've found autosiliconehoses or ash to be fairly cheap and good quality for ally and silicone pipework [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

They're fairly simple to work on once you get familiar with the boxer layout. I started off by setting a budget and max hp, bearing in mind that the classic drive trains limit is about 350hp .So anything above that will eventually cost another £2k if you have to buy a stronger 6 speed, clutch, brakes ect ... If it's a v4 or earlier any v1 to v4 long engine will fit but the head to inlet manifold stud patterns differ from v5 onwards. I mentioned this as it's much simpler fitting heads that are compatible with your car . Find yourself a good reputable local engineer, preferably with scooby experience. As boxer lumps do suffer from "ovality" and tapering of the bores .which can be missed by some if not checked properly. You might be lucky and get away with a hone instead of a 0.5 mm over bore. I'd only use oe subaru or better gaskets as cheaper ones don't tend to last as well . A full gasket, timing belt set (including rollers and tensioner),crank shells , "stopper " headgaskets and engineer check will set you back about £1k . It's a slippery slope and if you've read my build thread ,you know I'm not lying lol . Best of luck ,keep us updated and the camera handy 👍 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

They're probably thinking its the igniter at fault which sits at the back of the boost solinoid bracket. It sends a high amp signal to each coil pack but you bypass it when doing a newage coil pack conversion . As the newage coil packs just need low amp in and convert that to high amp directly on top of the plugs (less wire to create resistance and loose spark power). Unlike the classic coil packs which loose amps as the high current passes from the igniter and all the way through the engine loom to each coil pack. If you're running over 1.2 bar the classic coil packs are probably on their limit ,as mine wouldn't stop missing @1.3 bar untill I did the conversion. it's worth checking that the plugs are ngk heat 7's and that their gapped to 0.65 mm. Also that the coil packs weren't over tightened on fitting .They have a tendency to twist if not held in position while fitting and this can cause cracking (even on new ones) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Godspeed sell the clips along with seals and uprated stainless steel pistons for 4 pots [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Upset grey haired bloke in a new ish porshe boxter convertible with "jeff" as a number plate . He tried to undertake me twice [emoji53] once on a slip road and again at a national speed limit round about . He seemed a bit miffed and promptly punched the porkas steering wheel a few times ...... He probably saved a long time to buy his porka ,sorry jeff [emoji55] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

No worries[emoji106] You can obviously make just about any engine fit to a scoob but I dare say fitting the v5/v6 loom ,ecu ect would be the easiest option when converting from v2 to v5 / v6 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

A service and a power run is always a good starting point imo [emoji106] As you know it's running safe and it's a solid foundation for future mods . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The v5/v6 inlet manifold won't fit any other version of classic heads .Also the wiring for the v5/ v6 engine sensors/dash and ecu plugs are different . So it's probably got a v5/v6 ecu and if you need to buy any sensors ,fuel system components and engine bay pipework you'll probably need to make sure they're compatible with a v5/v6 phase 2 engine . Rather than the v2 phase 1 95/96 shell that the reg and vin plate model code will say If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Looks like sombody has spent a fair bit of time n money on it and having a v6 dash and wiring would explain how they've fitted the phase 2 inlet manifold. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It's the spring that holds the dust cover in place ,so not too much of a problem and cheap to replace [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I had a rethink and I added a 600mm long ally elbow when fitting the reversed inlet. so it's not nearly 2 mtrs it's about 1.3 mtrs but all the same it should help keep the intake temps down In traffic[emoji6] It does seem to pick up fairly quick and it's more of a gradual "pull" rather than a bit of lag and then it all coming in at once (like the tdo5 did) . I've turned the boost and wastegate duty down from 1.58 bar to 0.7 and haven't used anymore than 70% throttle yet . Due to not having any way of checking the afr until it's tweeked on the dyno . I'm hopefully selling the 5zigen system today and I'm currently running a 3" custom system but it's decated and does sound like a wrc car with the extra chatter in that vid I sent you stants [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I use Clive attowe in norwich for my apexi fc mapping ,he's owned his own dyno cell for a decade or so . I don't think you'd max the maf out before the standard turbo and drive train but check that with your mapper first If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It took a fair while to work out the new route for the clocked coldside mod and converting the turbo from front to top entry . But with a hacksaw and a few silicone elbows it ended up like this and I've now cut out just under 2 mtrs of heatsoaking fmic pipework from under the bonnet . Bit gutted about the rails but it will give me something to do while I'm plucking up the courage to hack the loom again to fit the tomei z32 maf plug . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I was hoping to fit the parallel fuel rails and fuel lab pressure regulator ,along with the sr40 turbo and thermal inlet manifold spacers .Unfortunately the fuel rails are for a phase 1.5 and won't fit my phase 1 inlet manifold without me fabricating a spacer . I always like to try something a little different so I turned the turbo coldside to try and lessen the heatsoak that the turbo outlet "U" bend creates I also fitted some thermal inlet spacers to help lessen the heat transfer from the heads. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah it reminded me of why I got rid of my 3ltr omega engined vectra b. .... As the fwd wouldn't let it go uphill in the snow and a 20 min journey took nearly 4 hrs [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

No problem bud. How's it running with the greys back in ? I sold a v1 / v2 esl'd ecu for £150 a couple of years ago ,so if you're lucky enough to find another second hand one, you could possibly get that mapped for £250 ish . Or if you're confident enough go on the esl mapping course ,buy the data cable and map it yourself. Otherwise I think a esl board fitted and mapped will cost around the £600 mark If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Starting to enjoy it a lot more after another gas on it ,definitely more like the old skool rally sims Thought I'd got my rally mojo back as I was in first place overall after a few rallies [emoji41] but then did the Sweden snowy stages in the crap wheel drive mini. .... and can't wait for 4wd . On the plus side I've almost got enough dough for the 95 classic now [emoji12] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊