Jay762

Hi - photos and a ballpark price usually help, you say the trade in option was dissappointing so you must have an idea - One persons reasonable / sensible is another persons astronomical

https://fenderist.com/fsg010en

I would do the belt and the pump at the same time purely because of the accessibility. For your motor I would keep it OEM, the higher flow, enclosed cast impeller I would only consider if you are running at higher revs a lot as the design is supposed to stop cavitation

Wotcha and welcome - first change I always make is a set of PIAA windscreen wipers, extra visibility in the rain

Visited TDR in Warwick to check the fueling after replacing the VF34 for the standard VF48. Nice safe results s# mode 348BHP (288 WHP) tickover was raised from 620 to 740, has smoothed out the idle nicely not quite as loud on the startup

08 STI standard internals, ARP bolts, Cosworth HG, Cylinder 4 cooling mod, Cosworth panel filter, standard UEL headers, HKS uppipe, Cobra full stainless turbo back system, standard VF48, standard fuel system, 3 port boost solenoid Area 52 made a decent job of the first map and TDR only had to do some minor tweaks for the different turbo.

Hi - I love the Subaru brand but from the experience shared on this forum, they do not do a good diesel product.

Well at least he has responded now and as you say, either way you get closure

I used Whiteline, Powerflex and Super Pro but the strongflex option will sort you out no problem

If you don't bleed the fronts first you run the risk of trying to bleed a bubble from front to rear which uses more fluid and is fine if you are doing a flush but for taht reason I always do fronts first

The abs ring is integral to the bearing so no way that could be fitted incorrectly - Def right bearing I am assuming? The abs sensor can be fitted only one way and the plug is quite robust so you couldn't have disconnected it unintentionally. ARB sensor is on other side of car soooooo I dont think there is anything else to look at

If I can get them the right size Michelins cross climate but have recently experienced Continental All season and am equally impressed, although they were only dealing with 100bhp

Had a similar issue but could not face the angle grinder and wire brush approach so had it blasted and coated - hopefully this will be a one time task 🙂

Wotcha and welcome - I also almost went for an Evo prior to becoming a Scoob owner and that was after going to buy the missus an Audi .... but we wont go into that - but after chatting to a friend who owned both apparently as a daily the Scoob was easier to live with, better turning circle etc. I would start with a thorough service so you have a known baseline of ownership, change fluids etc

+2 for hubcentric spacers, stop that wobble / vibration. I ran 20mm on my hatch with standard wheels and used a tape measure to figure out what size to buy. I purchased H&R spacers in the end

I had the replacement backing plates powdercoated as the paint was so thin and just unwrapping them caused some undercoat to show - hopefully they will last a bit longer than as standard

Wotcha and welcome - It is a little hit and miss unfortunately, I had a standard 2.5 sti and had no issues with it, serviced regularly and whilst all points on the rev counter were used in full there was (as always) a degree of mechanical sympathy. I also bought a 'built' example that on paper looked great but had just been cobbled together and let go 4k into its life (1K with me) I am staying with the 2.5l lump and on the standard one have put the cylinder 4 cooling mod in place, will retain a conservative tune (330 - 340bhp) and service regularly. The project one is getting built to be a bit more robust and will run higher power but spending time on track and weekend toy will mean increased service cycles. Buy the motor you have always wanted to own but have a little in reserve as a just in case fund

Wotcha and welcome - A few XV owners on here so feel free to get stuck in - all friendly

Yes mine is 2.5l Turbo installed - the oil return to the sump is the most frustrating thing, 4 hours fighting with it then just managed to get the position of the pliers, my hand and the angle of the spring clip just right and it went into place. Booked in with TDRacing Warwick to get the fuelling checked Modified the heat guard around the headers to up pipe as the sensor is well and truly in place so this meant I could remove it without damaging the sensor

I would ping BC direct - these two listed on their site https://www.bc-racing.co.uk/accessories/bc-coilover-c-spanner-smaller-single.html https://www.bc-racing.co.uk/accessories/bc-coilover-c-spanner-larger-single.html

Wotcha and welcome - Some choice mods there a nicely turned out motor. Feel free to get stuck in all friendly on here

I had that when my carpet / boot liner never dried. it could be your boot seal or the drain. mine was a tube behind the side panels rear of boot. Get someone to hose the boot and roof whilst you are inside with torch -- see if you can see where it is coming in? earlier models had issues with rear light seals as well if I recall

Wow possible bearing gone as well?

Wotcha and welcome - feel free to start a build thread and share your progress

Wotcha and welcome - I would contact a dealer first to see if they are still supplied then go to the aftermarket suppliers - It may be you have to get one made by companies that tend to supply to motorsports teams but that could mean you get a heated windscreen.