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What have you done to your Subaru today ?


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19 hours ago, Newman2213 said:

Worst case scenario cut it flush and weld a thread on, maybe.

I hope it's an easy fix.

Yup should be fine with a tap run down it - plan B was to drill it out then weld in a stud as you suggested 👍

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Just needs a final wash and it's ready to go back on.

Whilst the suspension is out I will be repainting the drive shaft, steering rack, and wheel arch.

I'm waiting on my caliper rebuild kits, and they will be re-done also.

 

 

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I took her out for a spin. 1st time its scraped going down a road and just a tad. Glad I had the springs sorted before I took it. I checked anyways being anal about my car.  And wtf did I see......

 

THIS

 

Looks like I'll be doing some fiberglass work then doesn't it !!! Jesus. Dunno when they !Removed! happened 

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Newman2213 said:

Just needs a final wash and it's ready to go back on.

Whilst the suspension is out I will be repainting the drive shaft, steering rack, and wheel arch.

I'm waiting on my caliper rebuild kits, and they will be re-done also.

 

 

Photo_2019-08-13_07-50-31_PM.png

Looking smart. Well played !!!Fancy a fiberglass job 🤣

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1 minute ago, Simon_ said:

I took her out for a spin. 1st time its scraped going down a road and just a tad. Glad I had the springs sorted before I took it. I checked anyways being anal about my car.  And wtf did I see......

 

THIS

 

Looks like I'll be doing some fiberglass work then doesn't it !!! Jesus. Dunno when they !Removed! happened 

 

 

20190813_121031.jpg

You can see it's all been fixed underneath before. So was obviously rubbing like a mo fo at some time.  Before my days though. Aahhh the Joy's of expensive cars 

Looks brand new from the front 

IMG_20190809_101444_044.jpg

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You can see it's all been fixed underneath before. So was obviously rubbing like a mo fo at some time.  Before my days though. Aahhh the Joy's of expensive cars 
Looks brand new from the front 
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Would you get away with trimming the back edge(removing the worst of the damage) and fiberglass reinforcement over the back of the crack(Giggerdy)?

Loud pipes save lives

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Loud pipes save lives for sure !!!

 

Yea I'll probably shorten how far back it goes and give it a MASSIVE RUB DOWN. Fiberglass a lot . Then a bit more to be safe. Then a bit more fiberglass. Might get metal piping to run along front depending on the angle. Then a little filler. Rub down again and paint. 🙄 I feel some late nights coming up 

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Clutch removed today - looks like a competition clutch lightweight flywheel with an ACT sprung 4 pad disc, one of the rivets is loose in the pad - should I be concerned??

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As for what have I done to my Subaru today? Washed it twice 🤬

Washed it , took it out to stretch her legs , dump valve literally scared the crap outta a seagull...... and it shat all over the front of my clean car , so had to wash it again 🙄

Poxy flying bin chickens 🙄😂😂

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Fixed a worn heat shield that was rattling against the exhaust and replaced rear diff front mount (weeping bearing) on the RX with the alloy version from the STI, a 0.75Kg weight saving

Before 

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OEM mild steel item with leaking bush

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Slight difference in shape due to the larger diff on the STI but mountings all line up

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STI alloy item in place with small gap in the cut out but as it is bolted to the unit itself I have no concerns

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Too hot to do anything, but have been reading about a cooling modification for EJ207 cylinder 4 cooling.

http://shop.getadomtune.com/shop.getadomtune.com/cylinder-4-chamber-cooling-system/

 

He has some solid research, and I've sourced the parts for £20 (dont tell him 😉) I may give it a bash.

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15 hours ago, Newman2213 said:

Too hot to do anything, but have been reading about a cooling modification for EJ207 cylinder 4 cooling.

http://shop.getadomtune.com/shop.getadomtune.com/cylinder-4-chamber-cooling-system/

 

He has some solid research, and I've sourced the parts for £20 (dont tell him 😉) I may give it a bash.

I will be doing this also 👍

Just contemplating do I plumb into the supply, or return line, of the heater matrix which are the options I have

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He recommends the return line, the only thing buging me about it is, he claims the fittings he used are designed to allow a specific amount of coolant through the pipe, and that it's his design alone that provides not too much or not too little.

But I see no reasoning for this  there are too many variables to specify what is exactly correct. 

To me less heat means less chance of detonation at high loads.  You could also put it through the flow into the matrix, as it would act as a passive cooler, but looking at the direction of flow it already splits off to the radiator and matrix, on the flow side, and adding another tee into that section could create flow issues, but maybe using a y fitting rather than a straight tee would create a less friction environment for coolant flow. 

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Thanks - I have seen various discussions online about how he has tried different diameter tubes / fittings, my concern is taking too much coolant away from where it is being routed to after the head on cylinder 4

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