savage bulldogs

Hi n welcome. Nice selection of scoobs [emoji106] I do like em in white ,nice choice [emoji41] Rather fond of upsetting audi's n beemers too [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

What year / model is it ?, as only certain heads will fit the pre v4 scoobs (without loom mods and adapters) Oe gaskets , acl shells ,timing belt kit and machining costs will cost the best part of £1k . find a good local engineer to check the block and head faces for trueness .also get him to check the crank over and I'd advise not to get it reground if it's over oe tolerances. Best of luck and don't forget those pics n updates [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Ghost have you tried stiffening them up with the damper setting? Nick , nice choice bud [emoji41]. unfortunately the ally and silicone pipework I needed didn't turn up so I couldn't fit the turbo and parallel rails [emoji53]. So I changed the oil and filter , fitted the new brembo bleed nipples and re bled the brakes . The Elizabeth wasn't much help ,as per normal she just kicks my spanners n sockets everywhere and sleeps in my way [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Check out my shiney nipples [emoji15] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

alyn @ Asperformance might be worth a call for baffle plates . Cosworth also do them but I'd imagine that they would be a similar price to rcm If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

hi n welcome ,nice clean looking classic [emoji41] I was into my Gm stuff before I saw the light [emoji4] Do you have any plans for it or just maintain and enjoy ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

V1 and v2 (up to early 96) are preface V3 (late 96 to 97) has facelift grill ,lights bonnet but preface interior, dash and bumper . V4 (late 97 to 98) have facelift grill ,lights,bonnet ,interior, dash but preface front bumper . V5 / v6 are a full facelift ,bonnet, lights,interior, dash .plus a different (3d) grill and facelift front bumper (with smaller indicators in it )[emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Bought a few bits of ally and silicone pipework so I can hopefully fit the bigger turbo (with the clocked coldside mod ) ,parallel fuel rails and inlet manifold thermal spacers next weekend [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome to s.o.c . Much planned for the scoob or are you happy with it as is ? Im just across the border in Suffolk Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

I've never tried myself ,so not a definite answer but I've heard that it will fit if it's a complete turbo back . As classic downpipes are a different length and use a different length cat back . They also use a extra rear hanger on the back box compared to newage but I've read somewhere that the turbo back exhausts are the same length overall . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Could be a blockage or faulty thermostat but seeing as it only does it on boost you could well be right. Sniffer test would give you a definite answer but unfortunately it does sound like typical early headgasket symptoms to me [emoji53] . under boost the failing headgaskets allow the heads to lift which in turn pushes combustion gasses into the coolant , creating excess pressure in the cooling system. Has it been mapped for the lower octane uk fuel ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Could it be a exhaust blow from the manifold ,upipe or turbo flange ? Have you checked the gearbox oil levels ? Could try changing the tyres from front to rule out wheel noise and while the front wheels are off check cv's for wear If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

As above would be my first port of call. It does say "jap stage 2 chip" which makes me think it's more likely to be a generic "chip" (like a mines ecu) which just raises the boost and has more advanced timing ,Rather than being re mappable which lets a mapper adjust the map live . If the car seems to be running ok get it on a dyno to make sure it's fuelling is correct ,as it's only about £50 for a power run and could save you a lot money in the long run . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Think that's the first post about a subaru propshaft being worn I've come across. They don't often fail so it could be worth checking rear diff mounts to see if they've caused the problem (excessive movement ) and it might be cheaper trying to source a second hand prop from a reputable breakers. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The change in bigger injectors will mean it's probably over fuelling and the boost map will be miles out due to the bigger compressor and lack of cat . I wouldn't drive it ,especially not on boost before you get it mapped . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Definitely don't just turn the key and try and start it , the bearings will be bone dry and you'll probably damage the bottom end . As ghost n tidgy said a good service and fresh fuel is a good starting point to see what you have mechanically. A timing belt check ,change of oil and a few full engine rotations by hand . Pull the crank sensor plug off then turn it over with the key ,as this will stop it starting untill the fresh oil has coated everything. Plug the crank sensor back on and cross yer fingers , best of luck ,keep us posted and don't forget the pics [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Quite a few people have gone for a alternative pumps to the walbro lately. I personally run a rcm pump but opinions differ and some use other brands. Standard reg will be fine at that level of tune but I don't like anything running more than standard pressure unless the fuel lines are replaced / uprated on older cars. if you want the get a adjustable reg I'd suggest a fuel lab one . Most map out the mafs but I personally prefer the safe guard of having the extra sensor in place and I haven't had a early maf fail in 20 k /4 yrs . I will be upgrading my early maf for a z32 one but I do run a apexi fc ecu (hasn't got a maf less option) and I'll max the oe maf at 360 hp ish on my next remap . What route are you thinking of going for the remap ? If it's esl daughter board I don't think the early v1 & v2 boards are capable of running mafless, so that only really leaves ackertek or big money syvecs to achieve a mafless running map . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You need a pic of the model code on the passenger side front strutt under the bonnet. Then have a search through the "applied model codes" in a sticky thread on here (somewhere lol ). Pic of the sti build plaque One of the model code plaque I doubt it's a sti as I'm sure they only made them from 94 onwards and tbh mine is the earliest date I've seen so far . The early wrx's still come with the "closed deck block" which with the right internals is the strongest 2ltr block subaru made . It will also have a tdo5 16g turbo as standard which is good for 350hp .so its quite likely that it is running close to 300hp cos the grey 380 cc injectors will max out at 290hp ish . If you do go to look at it just check the inner rear arches for rust and hear it start from cold to rule out knock or piston slap. If you bring it home start with plugs and fluid service and if it seems to run ok get it on a dyno to make sure it's running ok before you start giving it too much beans [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Being a 92 it will have the wrx cams, so it might not make quite as much power but my 94 sti made 347hp on 440's with the standard fuel pressure and other supporting mods . Cheapest option to get near your target hp would be second hand 440's ultrasonically cleaned . I run nismo 555cc injectors (nissan injectors with a tab filed off the plug ) these are good for just over 400hp . You can also get second hand phase 2 440's made bigger "cc" by Mark agin @ lateral performance but I'm unsure of costing Either way your scoob will run a phase 1 fuel rail set up so phase 1 or 1.5 side feed injectors will be a straight swap but they can only be cleaned not modified (made bigger) Phase 2 side feeds are easier to come by and can be modified but you will need "phase adapters " which cost about £ 40 including new "o" rings ,to make them fit your phase 1 rails I will add that I've known 3 early classic gearboxes spit their dummy out at 330hp, so if you're definitely looking for 350hp it could get expensive at the limit of the early drive train . As It cost me £1.5 k to upgrade to a stronger 6 speed [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

A genuine v1sti will have a build number plaque on the drivers side turret and intercooler water spray (v2 onwards didn't have the plaques wrx's don't have the water spray ) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

How's the general engine temp ? If the decat upipe hasn't been mapped in it might be running a bit lean and therfore hotter If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Bought some thermal inlet spacers and a few hoses for the spring offensive 😊 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

you used to be able to update the software on the simtek to alcertek ,I'm unaware If anything has changed but I've never owned either myself. how far away is Alan Jeffreys from you cornish? , might be worth giving him a call If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If it's a new ecu the simtek should have come with the ackertek update. Is the ecu definitely for a v1/v2 ? As the v1/v2 tps has 4 wires and the v3/v4 tps has 3 (so the engine loom differs) I have heard there's a difference between jdm and uk for the crank and cam sensor pinouts but I would've thought it wouldn't run at all if they're the wrong way round. I'd maybe consider getting a second opinion from somewhere that knows their scoobs a bit better, when you get it back . Have you got any graphs of the afr ,boost ect ? If it's over fuelling that bad I wouldn't drive it to much ,as it's likely to cause "bore wash" unburnt fuel strips the bores of oil causing wear If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'd imagine it would fit fine but I've never looked into sticking things onto mine ...... I'm thinking removing bits to make it lighter 😊 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊