savage bulldogs

I think matt knew someone who ran without a dump valve, i've read that ball bearing cored turbos don't like it much . Maybe get a adjustable one and stiffen it up a little bit to get some more flutter but not abuse the turbo too much .

Just caught up with this , thought you had your eyes on a red jdm wagon . Looks like a nice clean slate for a project ,though bud [emoji106]

Hi n welcome. Nice Clean and unabused looking example , nice choice [emoji41] .

I'm running a old school bailey's on mine only vid I've got is just audio and taken from inside the car though.

As above ... And is the new catch can full of water and oil vapour (creamy white ) or just oil ? Is the new can a 2 or 3 port can ?

I bought 1 a few years back for my classic fitted fine and worked as it should for the 3 yrs I had the car . Can say I've ever been disappointed with anything I've bought from icp tbh . If I was to be Uber picky the only minor issue I found, was after 2 yrs or so it had a little bit of surface rust on the shaft.

I used to be a welder fabricator ,so I personally think £170 is a bit steep for £15's worth of ally and a mornings work . I even spoke to a local fabricator to make a few to sell at about £100 but his mx5 turbo conversion kits are selling well ,so he hasn't got the time atm . The second hand 1 I bought had a busted take off , Id say it had been abused as the forged ones appear to be well made though .

A good steam clean is always a good starting point. There's a thread on here that has someone offering hydro dipping for plastic parts . If you're either painting or dipping parts you can either remove yours (if the cars safe to run without them fitted) or buy second hand bits and send them off to get painted /dipped . As far as the hoses go steer clear of cheap Chinese ebay stuff and only buy from reputable companies. Samco . Viper. Japspeed. Ect . As the cheaper ones tend to fail or discolour quickly but if you find a hose kit from another brand, feel free to post a link on here and hopefully someone else will have some feedback on them . If you do think about replacing all the coolant hoses (ie a full kit) and it's not within your skill set to do the work yourself . Some mechanics do prefer to remove the rad when doing cambelts . So if your cambelts due soon it might be worth holding out untill you get it done [emoji6] I like a clean bay as it helps you spot any leaks straight away but it's a slippery slope. .... as once you fit 1 thing shiny it tends to make everything else look a bit pony lol .

Have a squint at the "show us your bays " thread and chuck up a few pics of your bay with a few ideas of what you want it to look like . As with most mods tastes and budgets vary quite a bit but if you're handy with rattle cans you can save a few quid . Or just getting the under bonnet plastics and covers hydro dipped can make a big difference to the look of the bay .

Forge are a quality bit of kit but at nearly £200 new I bought a second hand 1 with a bit of damage to 1 of the take off pipes for £35 . Then had a local fabricator weld a new take off pipe on for a tenner [emoji6] Just keep a eye out for a second hand 1 in good nick you'll generally pay about £80 for 1

I'm just across the border in Ipswich Suffolk and gladly point you in the right direction. What year /version is yours ? . Any particular mods in mind or just shiny stuff to tidy the bay ?

I think rich at f.b tuning has a reasonable rep but give him a google . As I do all my work myself and don't have personal experience with many mechanics in East anglia [emoji106]

Try removing the return to pump pipe and putting it into a empty bottle . Run at idle to drain the system flush it through with fresh fluid . Then connect the pipework back up ,refill the system and bleed it . As somtimes just a fluid refresh can sort p.s or hydraulic clutch issues as they tend to get forgot at service intervals [emoji6]

I got stuck in the snow in my old v6 fwd so Bought a v3 uk classic at 37 . Told the wife just a exhaust n remap and I'll be happy ....... Now I'm 42 and think the drivers side rear door is the only bit left of the original uk car lol

Subaru do tend to switch stuff about quite a bit on different versions throughout the years . I can only go by what I've personally seen ...... V1/v2 sti and wrx's run the same tdo5 16g top entry turbo with different cams and ecu map to make the power difference. V1 /v2 uk turbo 2000's run a top entry tdo4 . I've seen v3 to v6 uk turbo 2000's all running front entry tdo4's . I haven't worked on the v3 onwards jdm wrx's and sti's so can't say what turbo or ecu is definitely on them , so the previous post was a educated guess . Best bet would be a google or searching the likes of scoobypeidia for a definite answer [emoji6] .

Classics run a tapered "conical fire ring" gasket between downpipe and cat back . If the 3" cat back has a tapered flange the 2.5 fire ring normally seals fine . Generally it's only if the 3 " cat back has a flat flange that it won't seal but I dunno if newage is the same .

I'd say ecutek would be the best option for a remap on a standard engine . As you use your standard ecu and just pay for a ecutek software licence to let the mapper adjust the standard map on it . If you decide to go down the bigger turbo ,injectors ect route at a later date ,then maybe consider a stand alone ecu . Cheapest option would be to get the avcr set up on a dyno . Then while gradually upping the boost you can monitor how well the ecu is compensates the fuelling map for a little extra boost [emoji6]

Last time I asked for photoshop wheels on here I ended up with crappy "fast n furry ar5e" stickers and all manner of things done to my pride n joy that can't be unseen by my eyes [emoji23] . @tidgy I do like my rota boosts and you don't see them on many classics but check the wheel shape clears your brakes before buying them bud . I know brembos are known for being big and your running ap's but even with enough offset on the boosts to put the front wheels level with the front wings , I still need 3mm spacers to give 4mm clearance due to the shape of the spokes [emoji6]

I was trying to think of a gamer tag for the original Xbox and owning a English bulldog I fancied something with "bulldog" in the name . As I was trying different gamer tags I obviously wasn't paying enough attention to my 18 month old daughter. ..... So she decided to bite my foot so hard it drew blood ...... "Arrr you little fooking "SAVAGE" and the rest was history (and a tetanus ) . To add to the random meme theme , I'll see your goat and raise you a hungry lispy dog [emoji23]

I was advised to "t" the 2 cam breathers together to equal the pressure between the "banks" . Dunno if there's any truth in it tbh ,especially as the oe oil breather pipework "t" 's crank and right hand head breather together anyways . Either way if you do track days ,running higher hp or just like squeezing the throttle on the exit to corners I think it's a worth while mod to lessen the chance of det . As for me n my old shed spec scooby today I be mostly embarrassing a nearly new 1 series m35i on a slip lane .

Mine was a mk1 2 door escort 1300e with 1760cc burtons built x flow engine twin webber and a branch manifold [emoji41] Spun the rear wheels in 3rd in the dry and ate gearboxes like a fat bird at a cake fair [emoji23] Wish I still had it [emoji53]

If it was a classic that would be as even the classic sti's only have 1 cam and 1 crank sensor. Unsure of newage , I'm afraid bud .

I bought nips and nip dust caps from ebay , can't remember the seller but I asked them if they were the correct ones before ordering them [emoji6]

Hi n welcome, are set on a impreza wrx auto ,not that there's anything wrong with them . Just the 3ltr spec b and twin turbo gtb auto legacies are a bit easier to find in the UK for sub £4k

Unsure if your's is the same being a blob and as it's a sti it might have avcs pulleys too . on my classic the cam sensor is the terracotta plug just in front of the white rag by the cam pulley on the right in this pic .