Newman2213 Posted August 11, 2019 Posted August 11, 2019 Worst case scenario cut it flush and weld a thread on, maybe. I hope it's an easy fix.
Jay762 Posted August 12, 2019 Posted August 12, 2019 19 hours ago, Newman2213 said: Worst case scenario cut it flush and weld a thread on, maybe. I hope it's an easy fix. Yup should be fine with a tap run down it - plan B was to drill it out then weld in a stud as you suggested 👍
Newman2213 Posted August 13, 2019 Posted August 13, 2019 Just needs a final wash and it's ready to go back on. Whilst the suspension is out I will be repainting the drive shaft, steering rack, and wheel arch. I'm waiting on my caliper rebuild kits, and they will be re-done also. 3
Simon_ Posted August 13, 2019 Posted August 13, 2019 I took her out for a spin. 1st time its scraped going down a road and just a tad. Glad I had the springs sorted before I took it. I checked anyways being anal about my car. And wtf did I see...... THIS Looks like I'll be doing some fiberglass work then doesn't it !!! Jesus. Dunno when they !Removed! happened 1
Newman2213 Posted August 13, 2019 Posted August 13, 2019 3 minutes ago, Jay762 said: Come up a treat I'm happy with it, only 3 left to do.
Simon_ Posted August 13, 2019 Posted August 13, 2019 5 minutes ago, Newman2213 said: Just needs a final wash and it's ready to go back on. Whilst the suspension is out I will be repainting the drive shaft, steering rack, and wheel arch. I'm waiting on my caliper rebuild kits, and they will be re-done also. Looking smart. Well played !!!Fancy a fiberglass job 🤣
Simon_ Posted August 13, 2019 Posted August 13, 2019 1 minute ago, Simon_ said: I took her out for a spin. 1st time its scraped going down a road and just a tad. Glad I had the springs sorted before I took it. I checked anyways being anal about my car. And wtf did I see...... THIS Looks like I'll be doing some fiberglass work then doesn't it !!! Jesus. Dunno when they !Removed! happened You can see it's all been fixed underneath before. So was obviously rubbing like a mo fo at some time. Before my days though. Aahhh the Joy's of expensive cars Looks brand new from the front
Jay762 Posted August 13, 2019 Posted August 13, 2019 Yes - you have my empathy - sometimes on the surface all can look well and then you do a bit of digging - but your motor is the right hands!
Newman2213 Posted August 13, 2019 Posted August 13, 2019 What the hell. It looks irs tie wrapped together with a load of body filler slapped on and painted. That looks like a lot of work.
Simon_ Posted August 13, 2019 Posted August 13, 2019 Yea it looks like a !Removed! botched job. It's a mess and yea itll be a BIG job . Story my life **** goin wrong !
mattiekane Posted August 13, 2019 Posted August 13, 2019 You can see it's all been fixed underneath before. So was obviously rubbing like a mo fo at some time. Before my days though. Aahhh the Joy's of expensive cars Looks brand new from the front Would you get away with trimming the back edge(removing the worst of the damage) and fiberglass reinforcement over the back of the crack(Giggerdy)?Loud pipes save lives
Simon_ Posted August 13, 2019 Posted August 13, 2019 Loud pipes save lives for sure !!! Yea I'll probably shorten how far back it goes and give it a MASSIVE RUB DOWN. Fiberglass a lot . Then a bit more to be safe. Then a bit more fiberglass. Might get metal piping to run along front depending on the angle. Then a little filler. Rub down again and paint. 🙄 I feel some late nights coming up
Newman2213 Posted August 13, 2019 Posted August 13, 2019 I hope the install of the body kit was better than the repair attempt, or you could be opening a can of worms. Or are you going to attempt it still attached?
Simon_ Posted August 13, 2019 Posted August 13, 2019 Yea the kit looks great on the top and over the fittings and that. Its just the underneath. Looks hellish
Jay762 Posted August 16, 2019 Posted August 16, 2019 Clutch removed today - looks like a competition clutch lightweight flywheel with an ACT sprung 4 pad disc, one of the rivets is loose in the pad - should I be concerned??
savage bulldogs Posted August 19, 2019 Posted August 19, 2019 Only ever had 1 car with a paddle clutch, I didn't like the feel for a road car and binned it . So can't say if the rivets being loose is a issue tbh jay 🤔
savage bulldogs Posted August 19, 2019 Posted August 19, 2019 As for what have I done to my Subaru today? Washed it twice 🤬 Washed it , took it out to stretch her legs , dump valve literally scared the crap outta a seagull...... and it shat all over the front of my clean car , so had to wash it again 🙄 Poxy flying bin chickens 🙄😂😂 1 1
Neil Posted August 19, 2019 Posted August 19, 2019 Put a bit of primer on the arch and thought that'll do for today. 3
savage bulldogs Posted August 23, 2019 Posted August 23, 2019 Went to the local retro car meet again , I only took a few pics of mine and my mate Garry's evo but a local photographer took this as we left 😎 2
Jay762 Posted August 23, 2019 Posted August 23, 2019 Fixed a worn heat shield that was rattling against the exhaust and replaced rear diff front mount (weeping bearing) on the RX with the alloy version from the STI, a 0.75Kg weight saving Before OEM mild steel item with leaking bush Slight difference in shape due to the larger diff on the STI but mountings all line up STI alloy item in place with small gap in the cut out but as it is bolted to the unit itself I have no concerns 2
Newman2213 Posted August 25, 2019 Posted August 25, 2019 Too hot to do anything, but have been reading about a cooling modification for EJ207 cylinder 4 cooling. http://shop.getadomtune.com/shop.getadomtune.com/cylinder-4-chamber-cooling-system/ He has some solid research, and I've sourced the parts for £20 (dont tell him 😉) I may give it a bash. 1
Jay762 Posted August 26, 2019 Posted August 26, 2019 15 hours ago, Newman2213 said: Too hot to do anything, but have been reading about a cooling modification for EJ207 cylinder 4 cooling. http://shop.getadomtune.com/shop.getadomtune.com/cylinder-4-chamber-cooling-system/ He has some solid research, and I've sourced the parts for £20 (dont tell him 😉) I may give it a bash. I will be doing this also 👍 Just contemplating do I plumb into the supply, or return line, of the heater matrix which are the options I have
Newman2213 Posted August 26, 2019 Posted August 26, 2019 He recommends the return line, the only thing buging me about it is, he claims the fittings he used are designed to allow a specific amount of coolant through the pipe, and that it's his design alone that provides not too much or not too little. But I see no reasoning for this there are too many variables to specify what is exactly correct. To me less heat means less chance of detonation at high loads. You could also put it through the flow into the matrix, as it would act as a passive cooler, but looking at the direction of flow it already splits off to the radiator and matrix, on the flow side, and adding another tee into that section could create flow issues, but maybe using a y fitting rather than a straight tee would create a less friction environment for coolant flow.
Jay762 Posted August 26, 2019 Posted August 26, 2019 Thanks - I have seen various discussions online about how he has tried different diameter tubes / fittings, my concern is taking too much coolant away from where it is being routed to after the head on cylinder 4
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now