Tidgy

that piston is screwed. looks like you have had some det going on. Was it mapped after it was built? block/head surfaces dont look to great either, were they skimmed before the rebuild?

you might want to find out what the fault is rather than just turning it off 😉

yeah looks it, tbh you could either replace it with another double din sat nav (seem to be £150 ish for ebay special ), or just get a tom tom.

hahaha nice just need to get on the back of the DVLA 😄

i've found the suppliers of it, hahaha

got a pic of it?

A fair doo's, i thought from yur post it was just a normal jdm sti. should look externally the same as that.

nice, did you know when you got it?

def looks like its an A-line, rare beasty if so

have you got a spec list for what mods are on it? I suspect it's not a normal STI, looks very much like an A-Line to me, what colour are the calipers? https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Tg7ZPMAwxqTTRUX2gyd1VEN0k/view

i agree on the left hooker.

try the throttle position sensor, when it went in my type R sometimes you'd fire it up and it would be fine, other times it would be all over the shop. Also worth checking the idle control valve as well, might be worth seeing if you can borrow one to try, would at least rule it out. you may not get codes when a sensor drops as it may not know its failed.

nah its a leggy, just trying to figure out which engine. 2010 legacy gt 2.5 turbo at a guess, engine cover looks right and the rotated cylinder on the left hand side (not sure what it is) is very uncommon, also engine cover is a give away, assuming it the correct engine int eh car and correct cover of course. https://www.motortrend.com/cars/subaru/legacy/2010/2010-subaru-legacy-gt-test/#2010-subaru-legacy-gt-engine

to be fair £1500 is prob what you could get from it stripping it out and parting it out (assuming engine is ok) so if you have time and do that will prob not loose money on it unless the engine is fubar.

Thays the other one, 'if its not broke, upgrade it' hahaha

cant find any info on subaru running engines from the factory, so i suspect they don't other than running up to temp to checking for leaks and function

so they run 2k miles on semi synth before going full synth? interesting. when do they apply the boost? at 1k?

have a nosey here, http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_24/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/

no no, i know you wern't, was just listing the process out :) I'm not actualy sure what subaru do tbh, might have to do some digging on that. There is an old saying, if it ain't broke don't fix it 😉 although don't think thats the case with subaru engines, its when they break fix em hahahaha

ive always had, 500 miles on !Removed! mineral oil, no boost then 500 miles on fully synthetic, no boost at 1000 miles, oil change to fully synthetic again and map away. so 2 oil changes in the first 1k but also heard other people say drive it hard straight away which seems a bit gungho to me

Seems to be varying advice on running in depending on who you ask. Scoobyclinic have always advised the same way and they have built hundreds and never had issues with rings not bedding in, they use the same method for every engine they build from race to road, well apart from drag engines, but they only do about 300 miles before they are goosed anyway. I've had 3 built, my dads had one and never had issues with oil bypass (never needed to top up the oil between services) or failure so i highly doubt there is any problem with running 1000 mi'es without boost is an issue. I suspect its case of procedure for the spec.

1000 miles with no boost 😞 i feel your pain 😞

welcome

Yeah theu pop up now and again, theres only 4 currently so very rare. Well worth having your own dine if tiu want one so yiu can spec it yourself, they also have the paint code for the proper wrc colour 😉

Hard to say tbh. You never get your money back on mods, or at least not all of it, but they do look epic.