Tidgy

I've got a custom billet gtx2871 on mine, on low boost (1.15bar) it made 330/380 on a 2,5 with v5 heads. Spool is pretty good too. No idea how the spec will result compared to your of course unless they are speced the same, which i dont have any info for im afraid,

Happens just as frequently in the UK. Just tends to be a case of IM fob people off. The 2.5 hasn't been changed much since it first came out, the engine is onto revision 4 or something like that now and the biggest change has been the ridges on the liners to hold them in place. Even the new one is suffering as well. The standard 2.5 block is reliable up to a limit of about 450bhp due to the boost level required to achieve that, (the higher the boost the more power typicly, so limit the boost, limit the power). People do get away with going to 500 on the standard block, however its a chance and as many seem to fail as survive. The liners on the block arn't that thick, which is what's limiting the boost. Because of that they also have a nasty habit of lightly ovaling the bore when push up the power band, closed decking can help that and 550 is roughly a safe working guide. Re-liner it and you can go alot higher, but there are costs involved in that and by the time you get to the stage a 2.35 is a strong and more cost effective option. Also have to think about what the car is intended for, a race car engine for example is a very different kettle of fish to a road car engine. Race cars are hammered, running typically 75%+ of their time on full chat, generating massive heat and pressure. Hence why their cost is alot higher and they dont tend to last that many miles by comparison. Depending on who you ask as to what's best will get you different answers, but alot of people in the know who have tried various different setups tend to agree the following as a rough guide for most drivable road used engine, up to 450 then 2.5 up to 550 then closed decked 2.5 above 550 then 2.35 bearing in mind once you hit even 450 then you can rarley use it on the road to its full potential anuyway

Isnt simtek and alcatek two different ecu's now? Sounds like you need to take it to somewhere that knows what there doing with them.

I got a few hours in last night, managd to hit level 8, if you like mass effect you'll more than likely like it

Its affecting 10's of millions of cars, seems to be affecting most manufacturers, List from america (but seem to be going world wide now) with some models to put it into perspective, Acura BMW (3 series world wide, 2000-2006, roughly 500k units a year so 3million cars) Chrysler Dodge Ford GM Honda (civic 2001-2005) Infiniti mazda nissan subaru Toyota

Should always be road tested even if dyno mapped, any mapper not doing a road test is one to avoid. Also so post map boost cut shouldn't be an issue, if so need to go back to the mapper and get them to fix it.

just for info 1 Litre every 1000 miles is the point at which subaru say the engine has a problem and needs investigating.

Sounds like maybe hitting boost cut, sounds like an issue with mapping if it stared doing it after that.

lol :D

It wont work mate, im telling you now. mines on PC lol

hahaha, would make it cheaper, just cant play at the same time then

Pre-ordered it last night, gone for the gold edition and cant believe i spent £65 on a game :o

Im doing about 180 miles per 45L which works out at 18.2, given what it is alot better than i expected

Tis a sad state subaru have got themselves into :( the bad news is even the new one still has the same crappy engine, there onto revision 4 or summit and all they have changed is the liner grooves :( Mind you build it right and the 2.5 is a cracking engine. whast the plans for the new one chap?

Welcome scoob is a scoob :D

What makes you think you need a new one?

bummer, sorry to hear its gone, pretty normal failure for a 2.5 though. While your having it done i would seriously consider closed deck converting as well as the usual, forged pistons, rod, headstud upgrades :D Very few places i would use to work on my car, ET being one of them so they will look after you :)

welcome

3.4gb lol

reminds me, not connected my xboxone up to the wifi yet haha

It's a sealed system so air shouldn't be getting in, typically it's spat out if there's a hole somewhere due to it being a pressurised system. you can get a sniff test kit yourself http://www.uktools.com/block-tester-p-12508.html

in reality for 99% of people the widetrack and dccd means sod all to how it drives, to take it to the point where it makes a difference you have to be a very very good driver and more or less pro. If i was going to do the change I'd look at a hawk Spec C

Will need alot more than just a map, GT is just the euro name for a turbo 2000, so will need turbo, injectors, fuel pump, decat and map at least to make 340.

if theres water in it still should be working. Top it up and bleed it properly and see what happens. Other option is sniff test

From what i can gather its a bit of a fad, older diesel can see some improvement due to internal build up, but most cars dont see any difference and even if thought so tends to be a placebo affect. Bear in mind it isnt giving you anythign extra, just cleaning whats there,